Retiring from one of the greatest jobs in the world Rhinegold Brewery, at the ripe old age of 45, thanks mainly to an injury on the job, he assumed a new job, grandpa.  Growing up, my Grandpa Lorey lived about 15 minuets from our house.  He always seemed to be around, whether my grandparents over our house or we over there, it just seemed like I saw him every day.

There were trips to the trailer, my grandparents have about 5 acres in Roxbury, NY.  My grandfather was a hunter.  He hunted deer.  It seemed like every winter there was venison at one meal or another.  I can still remember waking up and sitting in the little 10 x 50 trailer looking out the back window over the stream on a snow-covered forest waiting for my grandfather to appear with his prized catch.  I can still see him in his hunting gear, bow over his shoulder walking through the woods with his two pointer fingers on top of his head like they were antlers.  My brothers and I could not be happier.  ”Grandpa caught a deer!”

I can also remember as I grew up and was able to ride my bike on my own, I would take a ride weekly to their house.  It was fun to ride to the other end of Glendale to visit.  In the summer months, grandpa was always in his yard.  Talking with the neighbors, working on his car or just working on stuff.  He always had alot of stuff to do.

Then there were the summers in Baiting Hollow at the bungalow.  The long walk to the beach and sitting on grandpa’s lap as he relaxed on his vinyl lounge chair.  That was Woodcliff Park.

I remember when I was going to buy my first car, I made sure Grandpa Lorey was there to take it for a test drive.  It was a 1973 Cadillac Eldorado, convertible, rust orange with a white top.  It was beautiful.  He thought it was too.  But he told me in so many words and so nicely so that I would not but it.  It went something like, “You know, this is going to burn alot of oil.”

The first time I changed my oil, he was there.  The first time I fixed my breaks he was there.  The first time I needed to change my alternator, he was there.  My grandfather could take apart an engine and put it together, probably with is eyes closed.

Grandpa Lorey taught me how to shoot a .22, change a tire, sweat a pipe, run electric, use a bow and arrow, replace a rack and pinion.  He taught me how to crab with chicken parts and a string, he made me my fishing pole, and he help me fix some stuff around the house.

The night before he died, he taught us how to be a family.  One by one, all of his grandchildren made it to St. Francis hospital.  We knew it was happening.  He did to.  We all had swollen red eyes, handful of tissues in our hands, lumps in our throats, but smiles on our faces.  His one liners kept the room light, though our sadness was bringing it down.  ”So, this is what its like to die, all this waiting, well it’s some shit!”  Singing some of Jimmy Durante’s “Inka Dinka Do”.

One by one we all said goodnight and see you later to grandpa.  My mom, my uncle and my grandmother never left his side and when he took his last breath around 5:15am that morning, they were there.

For those of you who knew him from my childhood, he was the one who would walk around sleeveless showing off his tattoos that had grown faded over the years.  He was the one who would come and pick us up from school in is white 1968 Oldsmobile cutlass supreme with this latest catch on the back of the car.  He was a deer hunter and a might fine one at that.  Most of his catches were with his bow and arrow and it was the coolest to see that deer, gutted, with arrow sticking out, sitting on top of his trunk.

I could go on for ever telling stories about grandpa and what he was like.  Those stories will be shared for years to come with Gabe.  And those stories will be how he is remembered in my heart and mind.  But I have just one more story that fits nicely with my hobby.

On Easter Sunday last year, my grandfather made the trip out east to have Easter dinner with us all.  Surrounded by all of his family, some of us thought that this could be the last holiday together.  His heart was weak and it was alot for him to make the stairs, but he did.  We had his favorite meal, as we have been having for quiet some time on Easter, Suaerbraten.  While it was not venison, it was a delicious piece of meat, the potato balls and the red cabbage made this a perfect meal.

As I always do, I pick the wine.  There was some german reisling, some pinot noir, and some gamy noir.  And one lone bottle of Cabernet Franc.  Roanoke Vineyards 2008 Gabby’s Cabernet Franc.  Buying futures is a bonus if you have the opportunity.  I did and I am glad I did.  At the time it was not released, it may have been too soon to drink, but I wanted to share this bottle with all and with the meal.

We all sat down for dinner and I made sure everyone had what the wanted to drink.  I asked Grandpa what he wanted, he asked for a glass of wine, red to be specific.  I grabbed what I was drinking, Gabby’s Franc.  He just wanted a half a glass.  With two sips he wanted more.  When I came back to pour him another one, he said, “Michael, that is the best wine I have had in a long time, light and fruity almost sweet.  Very delicious.  Thank You.”

Wine creates conversation and builds memories.  Every bottle that we drink is for a purpose.  It rounds out a meal and makes everything about the event complete.  I can forget about the story of that bottle, what went into it, how made it, how it was made.  It is a fault of mine.  Most of the time, what I remember most the occasions and the moments like I had with my grandfather.  It is important to remember what goes into the bottle, but sometimes it more important to remember what you get out of the bottle.

The 2011 vintage could have been one of the wettest ones on record, especially on the back-end of it.  After a stellar 2010 growing season, mother nature brought us back to reality.  A cooler growing season matches this cool climate wine region.  Some might say that 2011 is closer to what we should expect in this maritime climate.

What will you expect with 2011 white wines: you will hear lower alcohol, lower yields, higher acidity, and aromatic wines.

Paumanok Vineyards 2011 Sauvignon Blanc ($24) is a staple on many a table at summer picnic’s and dinner tables.  It will not disappoint and already, it has me craving scallops.

The nose brings grapefruit, lemon, fresh cut grass and fresh cut herbs.  Melon, think honeydew and some tropical notes.  There was a hint of gooseberry on the nose, but after a few hours open, it disappeared.

The palate was packed with more lemon than grapefruit with a bit more herbaceous showing.  Ocean water salinity and fresh rain minerality rounded out the palate.

Bright clean acidity was most noticeable, which made we want some shellfish.  Moderate lemony clean finish with hints of grapefruit and herbs.

Sláinte!

On Sunday night, February 12 (i know, it was a while ago) over 100 people filled Jewel to attend a very special vertical wine dinner.  Peconic Bay does not often do wine diners, and after this one I wonder why not!  Not many vineyards do vertical dinners with older wines and after this dinner I have to ask again, why not!

When guests arrived we were offered two choices Nantique Blanc de Blanc or Nantique Esprit de Blanc.  Both white wine blends the only difference was the EdB was sparkling.  Both very nice everyday drinking white wines.  They went well with the past hors d’oeuvre.

When it came time for dinner, we took over the restaurant.  It was a site to see, everyone had three glasses in front of them waiting for the first vertical of wines to be poured.

Photo taken by Peconic Bay Winery

Tom prepared a pan seared Diver Scallop dish with Thai red curry red rice and roasted pineapple sambal.  It was paired with Peconic Bay’s 2000, 2006 and 2010 Riesling.  The dish was delicious and the pairing with the wines was perfect.  While we waited for the dinner to be served, I took a small taste.  I really loved the 2010 Riesling.  Minerals and packed with tree fruit it was bright clean and crisp.  The 2006 was a bit more austere.  Minerals and flowers with subtle hints of apple, melon and pear.  And the 2000 was a beautiful golden color, delicious aromas of pineapple, apple, dried apricots and clover honey.  Bright clean acidity gave the lush wine some kick.  It was a great wine with the dinner.   While I really loved the 2000, the 2006 seemed to enhance the dish and the dish no doubt enhanced the wine.  I wanted more and could have had that same dish time and time again.

But there was some older Merlot waiting for us.

The next dish was Roasted Stuffed filet Mignon with home-made Tater tots, baby carrots, black pepper glaze and a beautiful black truffle shaving on top.  Paired with the meal was Peconic Bay’s 2001, 2005 and 2009 Merlot.  Not a bad Merlot poured was in my glass.  Every single one went perfectly with the dish and it was so hard to pick one that was my favorite.  The 2001 was cool and relaxed with hints of earth, dried cherry, violets, tobacco, cedar and plum.  Well balanced, delicious and alive with bright acidity.  The 2005 might have been my favorite if you really forced me to pick one.  Cherry, plum, blackberry, earth and cedar box filled the glass.  I finished this wine with my last mouthful of food.  The 2009 showed huge potential as to where this wine could go.  I could see this in years from now just like the 2001.  Bright Bing cherry, ripe plum, raspberry, and fresh earth.  Cedar box again and hints of herb, chocolate and spice.  Of course the acidity and tannins were bigger since it was younger, but this wine has the potential of being something special in years to come.

Photo taken by Peconic Bay Winery

Next up was one of the main reasons we went to this dinner.  A cheese plate.  I am going to say this with intent: Every wine dinner should always have a cheese plate.  I would rather a cheese plate than a desert place, but that is just me.  The cheese was paired with the 2007 Lowerre Family Estate Red.  And what a pairing it was.  I never had the LFE Red prior to tonight but it went perfectly with the cheese.  Such a beautiful wine.  At this point of the night I really was really just enjoying my time there with Melissa.  I promised her that I would not take notes or “geek” out.  It was hard, but I did.  I just enjoyed this plate and savored every sip of the wine.  I can tell you, I will be out to pick up a few bottles of this and hold on to them, they are a delicious well made wine.  I had a second pour with my cheese plate, the only time that night I asked for more wine.

Photo taken by Peconic Bay Winery

The desert portion was an absolutely delicious dish.  There is nothing I love more for desert than some toffee, butterscotch or anything that resembles it.  Tom made up a Sticky Toffee Pudding with caramelized  banana, pecan brittle and butterscotch sauce.  It was paired deliciously with Peconic Bay’s 2010 Polaris, a chardonnay desert wine.

It was a memorable meal with some memorable wines.  It’s nice to have vineyards who can dip into their library and do a vertical tasting with a meal.  It’s not often that we get to keep a bottle and let it get some age on it. Peconic Bay did that for us and Jewel allowed us to gather and cherish something old and something new.

Related articles

• Artisanal Cheese Pairing Event at Peconic Bay Winery (newyorkcorkreport.com)
• Peconic Bay Winery Lowerre Family Estate 2007 (eastcoastwineries.blogspot.com)
• The 2011 New York Cork Report Wines of the Year (lenndevours.com)
• The New York Cork Report 2011 Wines of the Year Finalists (lenndevours.com)
• Peconic Bay Winery 10-Vintage Riesling Vertical: Quality New York Riesling Outside of the Finger Lakes (lenndevours.com)

John Leo has been in the wine industry for years now, originally from the Hudson Valley.  It all started for John in the wine industry in the early 80′s.  But it started on here back in 1994 when the John and his family moved here to Long Island.  Working with various people he landed a job with Pellegrini and eventually wound up with Russel Hearn, winemaker at Pellegrini, and owner of Premium Wine Group a custom crush company in Mattituck.

In 1999 he started to get into wine production when he was allowed to tend to 2 acres of vines in the hopes of turning it into his own wine.  He did all the maintenance on those vines; pulled leaves, snipped clusters thinning them out, harvesting by hand, learing the techniques that would help hone is talents in the cellar.  John waited for the right time to make that wine he always wanted to make.  He made wine each year, but in his opinion it was never good enough to bottle and put his name on it.  Eight years later, Long Island was blessed with 2007.  And John Leo felt the time was right.  The first vintage of the Leo Family Cellars would be born.

Leo Family Cellars 2007 Red ($40) is a Merlot based blend.  The Merlot (which is 80%) comes from the two acres he tends to, which is now at Pellegrini Vineyards, 7 % Syrah which come from Schneider Vineyards, 6% Petite Verdot from Russel Hearn’s vineyard in Peconic, 5% Cabernet Franc from a vineyard in Greenport and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon from Clovis Point.

The nose brings aromas of cherry, blackberry, plum, blueberries and warm bramble.  Earth and spic with notes of savory herbs and hints of smoke and dried flowers compose the aroma’s in my glass.

The palate is packed with concentrated red, blue and black fruit. Distinct chocolate and coffee aroma with hints of sweet vanilla, spice and dried cherries.  Tobacco and cedar notes round out the palate.

Velvet smooth tannins, and the bright acidity are well-balanced and really bring the fruit front and center.

A delicious, well made wine.  It kept me captivated for well over 3 days in the bottle.

It may have taken John Leo eight years to release his first wine, and it was worth the wait. I hope we don’t wait another 8 years.

Leo Family Red can be purchased at The Winemaker Studio on Peconic Lane in Peconic.

And for those of you who are fans of John, be sure to check out the last of John’s Winemakers Series Dinners at the American Hotel in Sag Harbor on April 26th.  I hope to make it to this dinner, the menu looks incredible.  You will be able taste this wine along with all of the wines he makes for Clovis Point Vineyards.

Sláinte!

Clovis Point 2007 Vintner’s Select Merlot ($35) is only made when the winemaker feels that the grapes harvested warrant this special designation.  2007 was a great vintage on Long Island so it was a no brainer to make a Vintner’s Select that year.

The nose bring ripe concentrated mélange of berries and fruit.  Plum leads the way with blackberry, raspberry and blueberry in the back ground.  Cherry and pomegranate appear in-between warm spice notes of clove, nutmeg and coriander.  Black pepper and fresh bay leaf come in secondary with things of fresh roasted espresso and smoky cedar and cigar box aroma.

The palate brings a burst of ripe berry bramble.  Plum, blueberry, black berry and cherry lead the way with some notes of earth, mineral and more ground coffee.  Sweet vanilla bean and cedar hidden in the back ground with a hint of toast.

Bright acidity with velvety tannins, follow a clean finish of mint, smoke, cedar and sweet plum.

Next time you are on the North Fork make sure you taste through their portfolio and take a bottle of this home for that special dinner.

Sláinte!

That second sentence is just in jest, Shiraz and Syrah are the same grape, it is just called different names around the world with Shiraz used mainly in Australia.  It pays tribute to Russell Hearn, the winemaker who is from Australia.

Suhru Wins is the brand created by Susan & Russell Hearn.  Su for Susan.  H for Hearn and Ru for Russell.  Russell Hearn, Australian born winemaker at Pellegrini Vineyards in Cutchogue, he is also the founding partner of Premium Wine Group, a custom crush facility in Mattituck.  Susan, Russell’s wife is the face of Suhru and the driving force behind Suhru.

Suhru does not have a vineyard per se.  They currently produce 5 wines, a red blend, Pinot Grigio, Shiraz Rose, Riesling and Shiraz.  Their fruit is sourced from various vineyard sites in the Finger Lakes and the North Fork.

Suhru 2009 Shiraz ($22) is a blend of 95% Shiraz, 4% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon from the North Fork of Long Island is a delicious wine that makes you stop and think that Syrah/Shiraz can be made here on Long Island under the right conditions and in the right hands.

On the nose I was picking up aromas of ground pepper, blackberry, raspberry, cherry and plum.  Earthy and spicy with notes of coriander and cardamom, hints of savory herb and dried mint.  There is a floral note with a hint of smoky gunpowder.

The palate brought big berry notes, more ground pepper and smoky notes with a taste of vanilla and sweet ripe fruits.

Bright acidity and soft approachable tannins filled my mouth with a moderate finish of ground pepper, mint and plum.

Sealed under screw cap or also know as Stelvin closures, this is a perfect wine to bring to that early summer BBQ or with grilled pizza.  This bottle along with all of Suhru’s wines can be purchased at The Winemakers Studio on Peconic Lane in Peconic, NY

Sláinte!

When Joe Roberts better known as the dude at “1 Wine Dude” came up with the idea of a “Single’s Night”.  I wanted to jump all over it.  Sure, the task would be pricy, but well worth it.  The object of this 75th edition of “Wine Blogging Wednesday” was to crack open that single vineyard bottle of wine and talk about it.

When Joe announced it, I knew what I was going for.  In my opinion this is the ultimate single vineyard offering from a vineyard.  Just 12 rows of Cabernet franc.  The eastern most 12 rows if you visit their tasting room on Sound Avenue.  12 rows of Cabernet franc maintained by Gabby Pisacano, father of co-owner Rich Pisacano.  Hence, this is where the name Gabby’s Franc comes from.

Here is a little back story about those 12 rows from my review of the 2007 Gabby’s Cabernet Franc:

“It was the winter of 2005, Gabby had been working under Rich, tending to the red wines vines that grow on the Roanoke Vineyards site on Sound Avenue in Riverhead.  Gabby had a thought and he demanded that he take over the 12 eastern most rows of Cabernet Franc.  You can see those rows from the tasting room; off the side patio look to the vines and the 12 rows  in front of you are Gabby’s.  Rich really had no choice, and he gave those rows to his father.  Gabby is the only one who tends to the vines, no one else touches the fruit.”  ”Gabby’s thought on the Cabernet Franc is a simple thought, that he could manage the “Twelve Rows” as they are widely known, “if he ultra-manicured the vines, so that each grape had perfect exposure to the sun and wind, and that there was plenty of space around the fruit for the breeze to circulate, his rows would avoid any disease pressure and ultimately deliver pristine fruit.” that according to his bio on Roanoke Vineyards website.”

Gabby’s Franc has a bit of a cult following.  It is released each year on his birthday, September 25.  There is about 100 cases made each year.  By the end of the weekend, it is always sold out.  Only to make appearances from time to time at special tastings, to wine club members and of course in the Roanoke Vineyards Library.

Tasting this wine tonight with little time to open is not doing it justice.  Roanoke Vineyards 2008 ‘Gabby’s” Cabernet Franc ($39).   This wine will last for days in bottle as you can note from my 2006 and 2007 notes and posts.

Tonight on the nose I was picking up notes of raspberry, cherry, spice and smoke.  Those aroma’s were lifting out of the glass along with hints of tobacco, sweet cedar and clove.  Some sweet vanilla and hints of what I will describe as wine cellar come out.  I love that aroma.

The palate brings more earth and spice with hints of cherry, and raspberry with mint and dried bay leaf.  Fresh ground coffee, exotic spice and dried oregano blend on the palate.

Packed with food friendly acidity and well integrated tannin this wine has the potential to age a while.

If you are a franc head like me, this is a wine you cannot miss out on.  There is a sing up list for the 2009 Gabby’s which will be released in September.  Sign up for some.  It is worth it.

Special thanks to the Dude for hosting and big thanks to Lenn Thompson over at the New York Cork Report for coming up with this idea over 75 months ago!

On a side note, there is a special post that is related to this wine that I will publish at Easter.  It is about my last Easter meal with my family that my Grandfather was at.  About a week after Easter 2011 he died.  This bottle of Gabby’s 2008 Cabernet Franc was open at the table and this was the last wine he ever had.  

Related articles

• Red Newt Cellars 2008 Glacier Ridge Vineyards Merlot (newyorkcorkreport.com)
• #WBW75 “Singles Night”: Pinot From Alto, By Way Of Norse Mythology (1winedude.com)

When I first read about WBW#74 I thought it would be a challenge.  Most of the sparkling wines on Long Island are well above the $25 limit.  So I needed to do some research.  I was going to go off island and go for something different.  I am a huge Farmer Fizz fan and I wanted to see if one could fit into the WBW#74 rules.

Then I remembered this bottle that I stumbled upon at Empire State Cellars when they first opened.  They were pouring it at the Cellar on their opening day.  I also stumbled upon this sparkling wine around New Years and picked up some upon recommendation from one of my favorite wine store dudes, Art at Gram Wine in Middle Island.  We had it on New Years Eve and Day as well as a few weeks later at Melissa’s family Christmas in Pennsylvania.  Everywhere I poured it, it was a hit.

So this month, I finally recorded my notes and present to you one of my favorite sparkling wines right now.  Palmer Vineyards NV Special Reserve Brut ($20)  Made in the méthode champenoise  style of 100% chardonnay.  Palmer Vineyards, located in Aquebogue,   winemaker Miguel Martin, made a very delicious and affordable sparkling wine.

The nose brings apple, pear, a hint of tropical citrus and croissant aromas.  It is almost cider like with notes of pralines.

The palate offers some tart apple, baking spice, mineral and  bread.  Yeasty and beady this is defiantly a sparkling in my wheelhouse.

The finish is long with notes of nuts and sourdough bread.  It shows great balance with palate cleansing acidity and a lush mouth feel.  There is a hint of sweetness, which I think could be brought on by the dosage.

This sparkling was a great find.  I was able to find it in a number of wine shops somewhere between $14.99 and $17.99.  Even if you pay the $20, you are still getting great value from this sparkling that might fall under the radar.

Special thanks to Tim for hosting, Lenn for inventing the idea of Wine Blogging Wednesday, and those of you who continue to keep it afloat.

Sláinte!

Related articles

• Announcing WBW 74: Value Sparkling Wine (winecast.net)
• Wine Blogging Wednesday #74: Happy Bitch Wines “Happy Bitch” NV Rose (newyorkcorkreport.com)

Viognier is a difficult grape to grow.  It is mostly seen in the Rhone valley in France where it is the only white variety allowed.  In the United States it is grown and bottled in many states with California leading the way as far as production.  Virginia is a little lesser known state that grows and produces some excellent Viognier.  You will also find Viognier blended with Syrah (maybe 5%),  traditionally done in Côte-Rôtie in northern Rhone.

Pindar Vineyards  has produced small quantities of Viognier for years now, usually under 100 cases.  With the 2010 vintage, assistant winemaker Edward Lovaas was able to squeeze out just a few north of 100 cases.

Edward also changed things up a bit when he decided to age it in neutral french oak barrels for a few months.  He wanted to add some complexity to the wine and make it more rounded.

The result on Pindar Vineyards 2010 Viognier ($25) is a bigger wine than in years past.

On the nose I was picking up pear, peach and some melon notes with hints of apple blossom and minerality.  THere is a nutty almost blanched almond note that really jumped out of the glass.

The palate brought more of the pear and apple flavors with some tropical notes.  It was more floral on the palate then the nose with definite hints of spice and minerality.

Bright clean acidity cleanses the palate with a lush round mouth feel that made the wine very rich and creamy.

The finish, which was long,  brought, what I will describe as a fresh sliced apple with a dusting of nutmeg.

The wine is not beaten to death with oak, there is just a sublet hint of it.  The wine is defiantly aromatic and fruit forward with a slight hint of tannins on the tip of your tongue.

The important thing I found with this Viognier and most Viognier is that they should not be served too cold, just a bit above room temp is preferred,  otherwise you will lose the depth  of this wine.

Sláinte!

Related articles

• Long Island Vines: Pindar Vineyards in Peconic Use Size to Keep Prices Low (nytimes.com)
• Bedell Cellars 2010 Viognier (lenndevours.com)

I had originally thought that this edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday topic, “Spark” was supposed to be what sparked us into blogging.  I had a whole concept and draft written.  Then I re-read the original post and realized it was about a wine, not an event.  If it were an “event” it would have been an event such as this.  Wine Blogging Wednesday was made me want to get into wine blogging.  And for that post, you will have to wait.  Lets talk about what wine “sparked” my interest.

This time for Wine Blogging Wednesday, hosted by The Corkdork, we were given the task of going back to the start and find that spark that started it all for us.  This one was easy for me, because not only did it get my juices flowing and totally sparked my interest in wine; but to this day it still is my favorite white varietal.

Gewürztraminer

I was captivated the first time I tried this variety.  I can remember my very first bottle —  Fetzer’s Gewürztraminer.  The nose, that spicy, floral aromatic nose.  The zippy acidity, the lush mouth filling tropical fruit palate with hints of roses.  You either love it or hate it, there is almost no in between.

Gewürztraminer grows best in cool climates and it is a very temperamental grape.  It hates chalky soils.  Loves cool nights and warm days.  It buds early and is susceptible to frost.  Loves dry weather, and can rot with too much rain.  Too much heat will increase the sugar levels bringing you high alcohol along with great aroma and flavors, but then has no acidty to balance it out.  If you pick early to hold the acidity, you lose all of those wonderful aromatics.   When it is time to harvest, and i saw this first hand, it could be flat and have no flavor, when the next day it is ready for picking, it is a very erratic grape.  It has a pink to red colored skin which when pressed exhibits golden white juice.  It can be dry, to off dry to sweet in flavor thanks to its high amount of natural sugar.  Rose water, lychee and passion/tropical fruit flavors are very typical of Gewürztraminer.

So why do I love thee.  I don’t know.  I can’t put my finger on it.  Sure I love asian and spicy dishes and they say that it goes great with it.  Gewürztraminer is worldly known as and Alsatian wine and I love Alsatian/German food.  I love goulash and noodles with Gewürztraminer.  I have always wanted to try cochinita pibil with Gewürztraminer, I think they would go great together.  I love it as a late harvest wine, since it can develop alot of sugars it is perfect for a desert wine or a late harvest wine.  In the winter months, it is my favorite white varietal to drink.  There is just so many reasons I like it it’s to hard to pick one.  I also like to say Gewürztraminer

The one Gewürztraminer that received alot of attention around my house lately is Anthony Nappa Wines Spezia ($18).  Gewürztraminer translated means Spice Traminer. This wine is named Spezia because Specia is spice in Italian.  The origin of the  grape Traminer is from a  town in northern Italy called Tramin where German is the spoken as well as Italian.

Anthony Nappa, winemaker and co-owner of Anthony Nappa Wines, along with his new bride Sarah Nappa,  almost never got to make this wine.  Joe Riley, a grower in Cutchogue had some Gewürztraminer that was contracted out to some one else.  The grapes had developed some botrytis and the person walked away.  Long afer most had picked their reds in the grand 2010 vintage, Joe Riley still had the Gewürztraminer hanging.  Anthony went down to see it and decided to take it.  It was almost a late harvest Gewürztraminer and over 80 % of the grapes were affected with botrytis.  But thanks to it being a hot dry season, it had all dried out and it was full of noble rot.  When it came time to make the wine, Anthony had to decide what to do with it, go late harvest desert wine and make it sweet or go make a bone dry wine.  What Anthony came up with is like no other Gewürztraminer I have ever had before, and one I may never have again.

On the nose you pick up a ton of aromatics, rose petal, peach apricot, lychee, tropical fruit and spice.  THere is some mango, dried pineapple and dried ginger tucked in there as well.  If you love aromatic whites, you would want to go swimming in the glass.

The palate brings more of the nose aromas but with a more intense dried tropical fruit and spice note.  Here is where I picked up the botrytis.  It’s noticeable and enjoyable.  Dried pineapple, dried apple, lychee, mango, dried coconut, ginger, citrus and floral notes all appear on the palate.

The palate is lush and oily, thanks mainly to the botrytis.  You can pick up the heat of the wine, there is 14.6% abv.  But it is well-balanced and well-integrated.  Great acidity makes this viscus wine most enjoyable.

The finish brings more rose petal, herbs and a candied ginger lemon zesty end that lingers for a while.

But were I found this to be absolutely delicious is with food.  Spezia needs food and goes great with it.  To have it alone with out food is an injustice.  I had this with a goulash and noodles and it sang.  The wine cut the richness of the gravy.

I have tasted this wine in multiple stages, at the bottle line, at release, a while after release, at Thanksgiving and just recently as this weekend.  I think that it is hitting its stride and is really starting to open up and become the wine it was intended to be.

Anthony hopes to make Spezia again, but it may not be anything like the 2010 Spezia.  Everything was just right for this wine and it is only starting to come together now.

Well, my spark has been revealed, while some of you may have known it, others may not have.  The wine that started it all for me is one that still captures my attention.  So what sparks you in the wine world.  I would love to know.

Related articles

• Wine Blogging Wednesday 73 “Spark” (corkdork.typepad.com)
• Anthony Nappa Wines 2010 “Spezia” Gewurztraminer (lenndevours.com)
• Corey Creek Vineyards 2010 Gewurztraminer (lenndevours.com)

The 2009 vintage changed things up a bit for Roanoke Vineyards.  With the extended fall that carried some summer like sun, Roanoke Vineyards hooked up with Sam McCullough and his vineyard in Aquebogue to pull in fruit at 23.5 brix in November 2009.  Once again the put it in the hands of Roman Roth.

Roanoke Vineyards 2009 “Rhyme and Meter” Chardonnay ($30) is the vineyards first barrel fermented chardonnay.  And my response to that is — what took you so long

The nose brought elements of peach apple, spice, pineapple, subtle citrus and nice minerality.  Floral notes appear as the wine warms along with tea leaf notes, pear and fresh-cut cedar and some butter scotch candies.

The palate brings notes of Apple, vanilla, brioche and peach.  Tropical notes and dried pineapple round out the palate with hints of hazelnuts, flint and cedar box.

Rhyme and Meter — poetry in a bottle?  For a first release oaked chardonnay, it does give poetic justice to chardonnay.

Sláinte!

Related articles

• Roanoke Vineyards 2009 ‘Rhyme and Meter’ Chardonnay (lenndevours.com)
• Long Island Vines: Setting Up Tasting Rooms Far Away From Wineries (nytimes.com)
• NYCR Q&A: George Romero, Roanoke Vineyards (lenndevours.com)

Martha Clara Vineyards in Riverhead never produced a 2008 Cabernet Franc.  It went into other blends.  It just was not good enough to stand out on its own.

Martha Clara Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Franc ($22) brings a well mixed bag of fruit, spice and earthy herbs, with dried herbs taking the lead.

The nose brings your traditional Cabernet Franc aroma’s raspberry, cherry, and earthy spice.  The cherry stands out bit more at first.  Then a dried mix of herbs stands out with some smoke and a hint of brown sugar to round out the nose.

The palate brings more earthy, spice notes with more dried herbal notes.  Cherry and raspberry take a back seat on the palate.  Bright acidity with smooth tannins that are well-integrated into the wine.  It was balanced with a finish of coca powder, mint and subtle cherry.

Sláinte!

In my opinion the one white wine grape that has done very well in 2010 was chardonnay.

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2010 Chardonnay ($19) is a 100% steel fermented chardonnay.  It did see extended contact with the lees following fermentation, which always brings an added depth and dimension to steel fermented chardonnay.

On the nose I picked up classic chardonnay notes, apple, pear and spice.  Floral with a bread like or even croissant like nose with a hint of baking spice , fresh hazelnut and stoney minerality.

The palate brought more apple and pear and spice followed by a ripe tropical fruit note like mango and papaya.  Some dried pineapples make  an appearance.  A lush and creamy mouth feel is brought to you in part to the 8 months it sat on the lees.  There is a bit of heat on the palate, something you can expect from a vintage like 2010.

Bright clean acidity made me keep coming back for another sip.  The finish was moderate with some baked apple notes.

When I was done tasting this bottle, I went back to look at my notes when I tasted this at Shinn Estate Vineyards “Shinn-Dig” — their annual wine futures dinner event.  Here is what I thought of this same chardonnay in February 2011:

2010 Chardonnay:  Stainless steel fermented, this is the wine that captured all of our attention.  It was my favorite of the night.  A cloudy glass was poured for us — this happens to be the only “unfinished wine” as the lees are still be stirred — it did not distract from aroma and flavors.  Apple, pear, white almonds and hazelnuts with hints of mango, peach and spice filled the glass.  There was a richness that I was picking up on the nose, buttery and creamy like, but I could just not pinpoint it.  When tasted, there was bright acidity, with apple and spice showing through.  Then came elements of fresh tropical fruit, pineapple, mango, star fruit and warm spice notes.  There was a bit of heat I was picking up on the finish, but remember, it is still not finished.  I think our group bought a case or two of this, and we never buy a case of Chardonnay.  This is one to watch.

Sláinte!

In 2009, Erik, a Buffalo, NY native took the opportunity to make wine under his own label and put his name on the bottle.  So Influence Wines was born.  I really liked Erik’s 2009 release and I was looking forward to the 2010 release.

In 2010 Erik continued to make wine, this time he purchased grapes from Dalrymple farms in the Finger Lakes on Seneca Lake.  His Influence was found for sure in the winemaking.  No added sugar, no added acid, it shows true essence of the Riesling grape and the region it was planted in, the Finger Lakes.

Here you can read from Influence Wines website what happened to the grapes at harvest and how they arrived on Long Island:

Once harvested, Influence Riesling is delivered to White Springs Winery in Geneva, NY on Seneca Lake, where the experienced staff led by Derek Wilber crush, press, and cold settle the juice, which is then shipped to Premium Wine Group on the North Fork of Long Island. Upon arrival, winemaker Erik P. Bilka begins the winemaking process. The juice is fermented in stainless steel tanks. Before completion fermentation is halted in order to maintain the natural residual sugars found in this semi-dry vintage. The refining process which involves separating natural occurring sediment from the final product is done delicately in order to preserve the fruits integrity.

On the nose aroma’s of fresh sliced peach, tropical pineapple and stoney minerality jump out at you.  Lime, more tropical fruit and some dried fruits rise up as the wine warms to room temperature.

On the palate lime, citrus, melon, pear and peach mix beautifully with bright acidity and just a hint of residual sugar.

On day two there were some tea leaf elements and some tropical notes with a hint of wet slate.

Related articles

• Influence Wines 2010 Riesling (lenndevours.com)

Rich Olsen Harbich, winemaker at Bedell Cellars did not make this wine, Kelly Urbanik started it, Rich finished it.

The Bedell Cellars 2009 Cabernet Franc ($30) is a beautiful wine that shows why Cabernet Franc when in the right hands, is perfect for the Long Island Region no matter the vintage.

On the nose, loads of cherry, raspberry, dried strawberry and cedar lead the way with notes of dried herbs like sage and thyme are in the back ground.  Earthy spice notes emerge with a hint of vanilla bean.

The palate brings more cherry and raspberry with a hint of bay leaf and more earthy aroma’s.  Some smoky, sweet tobacco/cedar box flavors also develop with time in the glass.

Unfortunately, this wine is sold out at the winery, however, I have noticed it at a few local wine shops.

Sláinte!

Related articles

• A Visit to Bedell Cellars (undertakingwine.com)
• Long Island Vines: Cabernet Francs of the East End – Review (nytimes.com)
• A Quick Visit with Rich at Bedell and a Glimpse into 2010 (eastcoastwineries.blogspot.com)

We have had great times in their tasting room and have always found very nice wines when we visited.  Our visits and experiences at Clovis Point were always memorable, however, there was something that just did not make it a destination for us and I really have no answer as to why.

That all changed with a bottle of Merlot.

Clovis Point Winery 2005 Merlot ($25) was a memorable wine from a memorable vintage.  John Leo, the wine maker at Clovis Point as well as production wine maker at Premium Wine Group, made a fantastic Merlot in 2005 at Clovis Point.  A blend of 80% Merlot and 20% Cabernet Franc, it reminds us how great the 2005 vintage was.

On the nose aroma‘s of cherry, black cherry, raspberry and juicy plum lead the way with hints of Tobacco, earthy spice like cardamom and clove.  Smoky cedar notes are around on this almost sweet-smelling wine, without a hint of sugar.  It’s hard to explain, but you just have to trust me (or try it yourself).

The juicy ripe fruit that I found on the palate is there, but what leads the way on the palate are some great smoky, earthy flavors with a hint of sweet vanilla, chocolate and cigar box notes.  Great vibrant acidity with biting tannins round out this wine.

This Merlot was a beautiful wine that had an old world feel to it.  If there is any left, make sure to get some, if not, you missed out on a fantastic local wine.

Sláinte!

What’s”Drink Regional Wine Week” you ask?  Well this sums it up best.  It was started 4 years ago by the site, drinklocalwine.com in an effort to get wine writers, bloggers and enthusiast to talk about something other than California, Oregon and Washington.

You won’t find that problem here on undertakingwine.com, but around the country people forget about the other 47 states that grow and produce wine.

This is your week Long Island.  Let it shine.  If you are tasting, drinking and enjoying a Long Island Wine, let me know.  Post it here.  And if you can come up with an essay in 47 words or less, send it to drinklocalwine.com and they will enter you into a contest.

To get better acquainted with why local wine is important and why Regional Wine Matters.

Related articles

• 7 Things You Need to Know About Regional Wine (Jeff Siegel, Wine Curmudgeon) (lenndevours.com)
• What You Should Know About Regional #Wine (dmwineline.wordpress.com)
• DrinkLocalWine.com Celebrates Regional Wine Week with “47 Words” Contest (vintagetexas.com)
• Calling All Bloggers: Regional #Wine Week Begins October 9 (dmwineline.wordpress.com)
• Regional Wine Week 2011 (whywineblog.com)
• Regional Wine Week – Drink Local First Hudson Valley (hvwinegoddess.blogspot.com)
• 4th annual Regional Wine Week (winecompass.blogspot.com)

Port wine is a style of wine.  To be more specific it is a fortified wine that is produced in Portugal, hence the term Port wine. It is typically a sweet, red wine, often served as a dessert wine, and comes in dry, semi-dry, and white varieties.  Long Island makes plenty of fortified wines, but to use the word Port, is technically a no-no.  The word port does not appear anywhere on the label of this bottle.

This Martha Clara Vineyards 2007 Clusters ($29) is an perfectly balanced blend of Estate Grown grapes; 34% Merlot, 33%Cabernet Sauvignon, 33% Cabernet Franc.  The grapes were hand harvested in November 2007, fermented in stainless steel and aged for 3 years in neutral oak barrels.

On the nose I was picking up notes of dried strawberry, blueberry and cherry.  Jamy for sure with hints of alcohol.  Chocolate cover cherry drops, tobacco , cedar and vanilla round out the nose with some hints of spice Cassis and liquor as the wine is open for a while.

When first tasted there are notes of baked fruit compote, strawberry, raspberry, blackberry and blueberry.  Clover honey, brown sugar and baking spices also appear at the back-end of the taste.  Stewed plum, chocolate and vanilla caramel and roasted nuts also emerge with time open and in the glass.

The wine showed some heat, thanks in part the hot 2007 vintage and the high alcohol (19%).  I enjoyed this wine, the acidity was just right that it kept me coming back for another sip.

The wine did change over the course of 5 days time and I found it more enjoyable on days two, three and four.  The flavors developed more and the wine developed a complexity.

Sláinte!

You will hear, or read for that matter, me say that the 2008 vintage was a tough one for grape growing, but here, Shinn Estate Vineyards 2008 Wild Boar Doe ($30) shows how hard work in the vineyard will bring in great fruit for a winemaker to blend together and make a delicious wine.

On the nose I was picking up notes of blackberry, raspberry, plum, cherry and hints of blueberry.  Earthy and spicy — you pick up notes of clove, nutmeg, dried herb and fresh cracked peppercorns.  There are some floral notes, like dried lavender and violets.  It was hard for me to take my nose from the glass.

On the palate a mélange of berries leads the way, some dried and some baked.  There is an element of cassis, earth and spice with a hint of cedar and tobacco.

The wine is packed with chewy tannins and delicious, mouth-watering acidity.  A food friendly wine that works perfectly with grilled meats and grilled veggies.

The finish brings a bit more spice than fruit and the fruit element is along the lines of cassis.

Back in March of last year when I went to the Annual Shinn-Dig Futures dinner, I had declared this to be the best Wild Boar Doe to date.  I think my notes from then still stand up.  You can read more about it and the event here.

Sláinte!

Well, I got a little backlogged and since we are in a bit of an Indian Summer, I still felt this was perfect for this time of year.  To be honest, I love Sauvignon Blanc any time of the year, but the summer is the perfect time to drink this.

Martha Clara Vineyards got alot of Press for their 2 Riesling offerings from 2010 and some of their wines may have fallen under the radar.  This might have and it should not be overlooked in my opinion.

In the past, Martha Clara Vineyards, in Riverhead, has made Sauvignon Blanc’s with a nod to New Zealand, a bit more grassy.  This one is no different, but with a bigger bolder nose and palate than I recall.

The Martha Clara Vineyards 2010 Sauvignon Blanc ($19) has 10% Semillion in it, which I think enhances and really makes this wine sing.

On the nose the wine gives off some musky notes with notes of fresh grass, some salinity and peperoncini notes.  Then as you swirl the glass some more, more tropical aroma’s like kiwi, pineapple, papaya mix with lemon and grapefruit.

The palate brings more tropical notes with kiwi, lime grapefruit, sweet herbs and grass.  There is a bit of a floral element as the wine comes closer to room temperature.

The wine has a great balance with a lightning bolt of acidity that is palate cleansing and keep the glass coming back to your mouth.

A fruit forward finish of grapefruit and lemon with a hint of grass lingers for a while.

Sláinte!