Something Old, Something New — a Peconic Bay Wine Dinner at Jewel

Posted on April 24, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

James Silver, Peconic Bay Winery‘s General Manager, hit the nail on the head when he said that this dinner was old meeting new.  Jim, was talking about older wine from Peconic Bay Winery meeting a new restaurant, Jewel that is part of Tom Schaudel restaurant line up.

On Sunday night, February 12 (i know, it was a while ago) over 100 people filled Jewel to attend a very special vertical wine dinner.  Peconic Bay does not often do wine diners, and after this one I wonder why not!  Not many vineyards do vertical dinners with older wines and after this dinner I have to ask again, why not!

When guests arrived we were offered two choices Nantique Blanc de Blanc or Nantique Esprit de Blanc.  Both white wine blends the only difference was the EdB was sparkling.  Both very nice everyday drinking white wines.  They went well with the past hors d’oeuvre.

When it came time for dinner, we took over the restaurant.  It was a site to see, everyone had three glasses in front of them waiting for the first vertical of wines to be poured.

Photo taken by Peconic Bay Winery

Tom prepared a pan seared Diver Scallop dish with Thai red curry red rice and roasted pineapple sambal.  It was paired with Peconic Bay’s 2000, 2006 and 2010 Riesling.  The dish was delicious and the pairing with the wines was perfect.  While we waited for the dinner to be served, I took a small taste.  I really loved the 2010 Riesling.  Minerals and packed with tree fruit it was bright clean and crisp.  The 2006 was a bit more austere.  Minerals and flowers with subtle hints of apple, melon and pear.  And the 2000 was a beautiful golden color, delicious aromas of pineapple, apple, dried apricots and clover honey.  Bright clean acidity gave the lush wine some kick.  It was a great wine with the dinner.   While I really loved the 2000, the 2006 seemed to enhance the dish and the dish no doubt enhanced the wine.  I wanted more and could have had that same dish time and time again.

But there was some older Merlot waiting for us.

The next dish was Roasted Stuffed filet Mignon with home-made Tater tots, baby carrots, black pepper glaze and a beautiful black truffle shaving on top.  Paired with the meal was Peconic Bay’s 2001, 2005 and 2009 Merlot.  Not a bad Merlot poured was in my glass.  Every single one went perfectly with the dish and it was so hard to pick one that was my favorite.  The 2001 was cool and relaxed with hints of earth, dried cherry, violets, tobacco, cedar and plum.  Well balanced, delicious and alive with bright acidity.  The 2005 might have been my favorite if you really forced me to pick one.  Cherry, plum, blackberry, earth and cedar box filled the glass.  I finished this wine with my last mouthful of food.  The 2009 showed huge potential as to where this wine could go.  I could see this in years from now just like the 2001.  Bright Bing cherry, ripe plum, raspberry, and fresh earth.  Cedar box again and hints of herb, chocolate and spice.  Of course the acidity and tannins were bigger since it was younger, but this wine has the potential of being something special in years to come.

Photo taken by Peconic Bay Winery

Next up was one of the main reasons we went to this dinner.  A cheese plate.  I am going to say this with intent: Every wine dinner should always have a cheese plate.  I would rather a cheese plate than a desert place, but that is just me.  The cheese was paired with the 2007 Lowerre Family Estate Red.  And what a pairing it was.  I never had the LFE Red prior to tonight but it went perfectly with the cheese.  Such a beautiful wine.  At this point of the night I really was really just enjoying my time there with Melissa.  I promised her that I would not take notes or “geek” out.  It was hard, but I did.  I just enjoyed this plate and savored every sip of the wine.  I can tell you, I will be out to pick up a few bottles of this and hold on to them, they are a delicious well made wine.  I had a second pour with my cheese plate, the only time that night I asked for more wine.

Photo taken by Peconic Bay Winery

The desert portion was an absolutely delicious dish.  There is nothing I love more for desert than some toffee, butterscotch or anything that resembles it.  Tom made up a Sticky Toffee Pudding with caramelized  banana, pecan brittle and butterscotch sauce.  It was paired deliciously with Peconic Bay’s 2010 Polaris, a chardonnay desert wine.

It was a memorable meal with some memorable wines.  It’s nice to have vineyards who can dip into their library and do a vertical tasting with a meal.  It’s not often that we get to keep a bottle and let it get some age on it. Peconic Bay did that for us and Jewel allowed us to gather and cherish something old and something new.

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Posted in Event, Food, Long Island, Peconic Bay Winery, Winery Dinner | Leave a comment

Leo Family Cellars 2007 Red

Posted on April 23, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

John Leo has a cult following as a winemaker out on the North Fork.  That is my honest opinion. He is a consulting winemaker for Premium Wine Group in Mattituc; the winemaker at Clovis Point Vineyards and now he has his own wine in bottle, Leo Family Cellars.

John Leo has been in the wine industry for years now, originally from the Hudson Valley.  It all started for John in the wine industry in the early 80’s.  But it started on here back in 1994 when the John and his family moved here to Long Island.  Working with various people he landed a job with Pellegrini and eventually wound up with Russel Hearn, winemaker at Pellegrini, and owner of Premium Wine Group a custom crush company in Mattituck.

In 1999 he started to get into wine production when he was allowed to tend to 2 acres of vines in the hopes of turning it into his own wine.  He did all the maintenance on those vines; pulled leaves, snipped clusters thinning them out, harvesting by hand, learing the techniques that would help hone is talents in the cellar.  John waited for the right time to make that wine he always wanted to make.  He made wine each year, but in his opinion it was never good enough to bottle and put his name on it.  Eight years later, Long Island was blessed with 2007.  And John Leo felt the time was right.  The first vintage of the Leo Family Cellars would be born.

Leo Family Cellars 2007 Red ($40) is a Merlot based blend.  The Merlot (which is 80%) comes from the two acres he tends to, which is now at Pellegrini Vineyards, 7 % Syrah which come from Schneider Vineyards, 6% Petite Verdot from Russel Hearn’s vineyard in Peconic, 5% Cabernet Franc from a vineyard in Greenport and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon from Clovis Point.

The nose brings aromas of cherry, blackberry, plum, blueberries and warm bramble.  Earth and spic with notes of savory herbs and hints of smoke and dried flowers compose the aroma’s in my glass.

The palate is packed with concentrated red, blue and black fruit. Distinct chocolate and coffee aroma with hints of sweet vanilla, spice and dried cherries.  Tobacco and cedar notes round out the palate.

Velvet smooth tannins, and the bright acidity are well-balanced and really bring the fruit front and center.

A delicious, well made wine.  It kept me captivated for well over 3 days in the bottle.

It may have taken John Leo eight years to release his first wine, and it was worth the wait. I hope we don’t wait another 8 years.

Leo Family Red can be purchased at The Winemaker Studio on Peconic Lane in Peconic.

And for those of you who are fans of John, be sure to check out the last of John’s Winemakers Series Dinners at the American Hotel in Sag Harbor on April 26th.  I hope to make it to this dinner, the menu looks incredible.  You will be able taste this wine along with all of the wines he makes for Clovis Point Vineyards.

Sláinte!

*I received this bottle as a sample from the vineyard
Posted in 2007, Leo Family Cellars, Long Island, Red Wine | 2 Comments

Clovis Point 2007 Vintner’s Select Merlot

Posted on April 17, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

IMG-20111122-00077Clovis Point is slowly gaining some attention.  Their reds have captured my attention since I first visited them on a beautiful summer day back in 2005.  They may be under the radar for some, which is a shame.  They should be a must visit for everyone who goes out wine tasting on the North Fork.  A boutique winery in Jamesport makes some delicious chardonnay, bot steel and barrel fermented and some distinctive Merlot, Cabernet Franc and Cabernet Sauvignon and a red blend from grapes grown on the estate with a delicious Syrah that is usually hard to come by.  All made under the direction of winemaker John Leo.

Clovis Point 2007 Vintner’s Select Merlot ($35) is only made when the winemaker feels that the grapes harvested warrant this special designation.  2007 was a great vintage on Long Island so it was a no brainer to make a Vintner’s Select that year.

The nose bring ripe concentrated mélange of berries and fruit.  Plum leads the way with blackberry, raspberry and blueberry in the back ground.  Cherry and pomegranate appear in-between warm spice notes of clove, nutmeg and coriander.  Black pepper and fresh bay leaf come in secondary with things of fresh roasted espresso and smoky cedar and cigar box aroma.

The palate brings a burst of ripe berry bramble.  Plum, blueberry, black berry and cherry lead the way with some notes of earth, mineral and more ground coffee.  Sweet vanilla bean and cedar hidden in the back ground with a hint of toast.

Bright acidity with velvety tannins, follow a clean finish of mint, smoke, cedar and sweet plum.

Next time you are on the North Fork make sure you taste through their portfolio and take a bottle of this home for that special dinner.

Sláinte!

Posted in 2007, Clovis Point, Long Island | 2 Comments

Suhru 2009 Shiraz

Posted on April 16, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

IMG-20120106-00086Syrah is not planted in every vineyard here on Long Island.  Shiraz is even harder to find here on Long Island.

That second sentence is just in jest, Shiraz and Syrah are the same grape, it is just called different names around the world with Shiraz used mainly in Australia.  It pays tribute to Russell Hearn, the winemaker who is from Australia.

Suhru Wins is the brand created by Susan & Russell Hearn.  Su for Susan.  H for Hearn and Ru for Russell.  Russell Hearn, Australian born winemaker at Pellegrini Vineyards in Cutchogue, he is also the founding partner of Premium Wine Group, a custom crush facility in Mattituck.  Susan, Russell’s wife is the face of Suhru and the driving force behind Suhru.

Suhru does not have a vineyard per se.  They currently produce 5 wines, a red blend, Pinot Grigio, Shiraz Rose, Riesling and Shiraz.  Their fruit is sourced from various vineyard sites in the Finger Lakes and the North Fork.

Suhru 2009 Shiraz ($22) is a blend of 95% Shiraz, 4% Petit Verdot and 1% Cabernet Sauvignon from the North Fork of Long Island is a delicious wine that makes you stop and think that Syrah/Shiraz can be made here on Long Island under the right conditions and in the right hands.

On the nose I was picking up aromas of ground pepper, blackberry, raspberry, cherry and plum.  Earthy and spicy with notes of coriander and cardamom, hints of savory herb and dried mint.  There is a floral note with a hint of smoky gunpowder.

The palate brought big berry notes, more ground pepper and smoky notes with a taste of vanilla and sweet ripe fruits.

Bright acidity and soft approachable tannins filled my mouth with a moderate finish of ground pepper, mint and plum.

Sealed under screw cap or also know as Stelvin closures, this is a perfect wine to bring to that early summer BBQ or with grilled pizza.  This bottle along with all of Suhru’s wines can be purchased at The Winemakers Studio on Peconic Lane in Peconic, NY

Sláinte!

Posted in 2009, Long Island, Syrah | Leave a comment

Roanoke Vineyards 2008 Gabby’s Cabernet Franc

Posted on March 21, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

There are a handful of single vineyard offerings here on Long Island.  Sometimes I wish there would be a few more.  It would give people an opportunity to understand terrior and how the slightest slope of the land, how thinning of the leaves or the way the sun hits the vineyard in the morning affects the fruit of the vine.

When Joe Roberts better known as the dude at “1 Wine Dude” came up with the idea of a “Single’s Night”.  I wanted to jump all over it.  Sure, the task would be pricy, but well worth it.  The object of this 75th edition of “Wine Blogging Wednesday” was to crack open that single vineyard bottle of wine and talk about it.

When Joe announced it, I knew what I was going for.  In my opinion this is the ultimate single vineyard offering from a vineyard.  Just 12 rows of Cabernet franc.  The eastern most 12 rows if you visit their tasting room on Sound Avenue.  12 rows of Cabernet franc maintained by Gabby Pisacano, father of co-owner Rich Pisacano.  Hence, this is where the name Gabby’s Franc comes from.

Here is a little back story about those 12 rows from my review of the 2007 Gabby’s Cabernet Franc:

“It was the winter of 2005, Gabby had been working under Rich, tending to the red wines vines that grow on the Roanoke Vineyards site on Sound Avenue in Riverhead.  Gabby had a thought and he demanded that he take over the 12 eastern most rows of Cabernet Franc.  You can see those rows from the tasting room; off the side patio look to the vines and the 12 rows  in front of you are Gabby’s.  Rich really had no choice, and he gave those rows to his father.  Gabby is the only one who tends to the vines, no one else touches the fruit.”  “Gabby’s thought on the Cabernet Franc is a simple thought, that he could manage the “Twelve Rows” as they are widely known, “if he ultra-manicured the vines, so that each grape had perfect exposure to the sun and wind, and that there was plenty of space around the fruit for the breeze to circulate, his rows would avoid any disease pressure and ultimately deliver pristine fruit.” that according to his bio on Roanoke Vineyards website.”

Gabby’s Franc has a bit of a cult following.  It is released each year on his birthday, September 25.  There is about 100 cases made each year.  By the end of the weekend, it is always sold out.  Only to make appearances from time to time at special tastings, to wine club members and of course in the Roanoke Vineyards Library.

Tasting this wine tonight with little time to open is not doing it justice.  Roanoke Vineyards 2008 ‘Gabby’s” Cabernet Franc ($39).   This wine will last for days in bottle as you can note from my 2006 and 2007 notes and posts.

Tonight on the nose I was picking up notes of raspberry, cherry, spice and smoke.  Those aroma’s were lifting out of the glass along with hints of tobacco, sweet cedar and clove.  Some sweet vanilla and hints of what I will describe as wine cellar come out.  I love that aroma.

The palate brings more earth and spice with hints of cherry, and raspberry with mint and dried bay leaf.  Fresh ground coffee, exotic spice and dried oregano blend on the palate.

Packed with food friendly acidity and well integrated tannin this wine has the potential to age a while.

If you are a franc head like me, this is a wine you cannot miss out on.  There is a sing up list for the 2009 Gabby’s which will be released in September.  Sign up for some.  It is worth it.

Special thanks to the Dude for hosting and big thanks to Lenn Thompson over at the New York Cork Report for coming up with this idea over 75 months ago!

On a side note, there is a special post that is related to this wine that I will publish at Easter.  It is about my last Easter meal with my family that my Grandfather was at.  About a week after Easter 2011 he died.  This bottle of Gabby’s 2008 Cabernet Franc was open at the table and this was the last wine he ever had.  

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Posted in 2008, Cabernet Franc, Long Island, Roanoke Vineyards | Leave a comment

Wine Blogging Wednesday #74: Palmer Vineyards NV Special Reserve Brut

Posted on February 15, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

For those of you not in the know, Wine Blogging Wednesday was started a while back by Lenn Thompson at the New York Cork Report.  It is hosted by a blogger who picks a theme that other bloggers around the country take part in.  This month Tim Elliot of Winecast is hosting.  The theme that Tim chose was Value Sparkling Wine.  The requirement; It had to be a sparkling wine under $25.

When I first read about WBW#74 I thought it would be a challenge.  Most of the sparkling wines on Long Island are well above the $25 limit.  So I needed to do some research.  I was going to go off island and go for something different.  I am a huge Farmer Fizz fan and I wanted to see if one could fit into the WBW#74 rules.

Then I remembered this bottle that I stumbled upon at Empire State Cellars when they first opened.  They were pouring it at the Cellar on their opening day.  I also stumbled upon this sparkling wine around New Years and picked up some upon recommendation from one of my favorite wine store dudes, Art at Gram Wine in Middle Island.  We had it on New Years Eve and Day as well as a few weeks later at Melissa’s family Christmas in Pennsylvania.  Everywhere I poured it, it was a hit.

So this month, I finally recorded my notes and present to you one of my favorite sparkling wines right now.  Palmer Vineyards NV Special Reserve Brut ($20)  Made in the méthode champenoise  style of 100% chardonnay.  Palmer Vineyards, located in Aquebogue,   winemaker Miguel Martin, made a very delicious and affordable sparkling wine.

The nose brings apple, pear, a hint of tropical citrus and croissant aromas.  It is almost cider like with notes of pralines.

The palate offers some tart apple, baking spice, mineral and  bread.  Yeasty and beady this is defiantly a sparkling in my wheelhouse.

The finish is long with notes of nuts and sourdough bread.  It shows great balance with palate cleansing acidity and a lush mouth feel.  There is a hint of sweetness, which I think could be brought on by the dosage.

This sparkling was a great find.  I was able to find it in a number of wine shops somewhere between $14.99 and $17.99.  Even if you pay the $20, you are still getting great value from this sparkling that might fall under the radar.

Special thanks to Tim for hosting, Lenn for inventing the idea of Wine Blogging Wednesday, and those of you who continue to keep it afloat.

Sláinte!

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Posted in Chardonnay, Long Island, Sparkling Wine, Wine Blogging Wednesday | 6 Comments

Pindar Vineyards 2010 Viognier

Posted on January 31, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

Pindar Vineyards in Peconic, is one of a handful of vineyards on the east end the grow and bottle Viognier.  Bedell Cellars and Martha Clara Vineyards are the other two who release their own Viognier.  Macari Vineyards uses some in their desert wine, “Block E”.  Others grow it or are growing it to add to blends.

Viognier is a difficult grape to grow.  It is mostly seen in the Rhone valley in France where it is the only white variety allowed.  In the United States it is grown and bottled in many states with California leading the way as far as production.  Virginia is a little lesser known state that grows and produces some excellent Viognier.  You will also find Viognier blended with Syrah (maybe 5%),  traditionally done in Côte-Rôtie in northern Rhone.

Pindar Vineyards  has produced small quantities of Viognier for years now, usually under 100 cases.  With the 2010 vintage, assistant winemaker Edward Lovaas was able to squeeze out just a few north of 100 cases.

Edward also changed things up a bit when he decided to age it in neutral french oak barrels for a few months.  He wanted to add some complexity to the wine and make it more rounded.

The result on Pindar Vineyards 2010 Viognier ($25) is a bigger wine than in years past.

On the nose I was picking up pear, peach and some melon notes with hints of apple blossom and minerality.  THere is a nutty almost blanched almond note that really jumped out of the glass.

The palate brought more of the pear and apple flavors with some tropical notes.  It was more floral on the palate then the nose with definite hints of spice and minerality.

Bright clean acidity cleanses the palate with a lush round mouth feel that made the wine very rich and creamy.

The finish, which was long,  brought, what I will describe as a fresh sliced apple with a dusting of nutmeg.

The wine is not beaten to death with oak, there is just a sublet hint of it.  The wine is defiantly aromatic and fruit forward with a slight hint of tannins on the tip of your tongue.

The important thing I found with this Viognier and most Viognier is that they should not be served too cold, just a bit above room temp is preferred,  otherwise you will lose the depth  of this wine.

Sláinte!

*I received this bottle as a sample from the vineyard
 
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Posted in 2010, Long Island, Pindar, Viognier | Leave a comment

Anthony Nappa Wines 2010 “Spezia” — Wine Blogging Wednesday #73 “Spark”

Posted on January 18, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

You need a spark to start an engine.  You need a spark to light a fire.  You need a spark to keep a relationship going.  You need a spark to get things in motion and keep them moving.

I had originally thought that this edition of Wine Blogging Wednesday topic, “Spark” was supposed to be what sparked us into blogging.  I had a whole concept and draft written.  Then I re-read the original post and realized it was about a wine, not an event.  If it were an “event” it would have been an event such as this.  Wine Blogging Wednesday was made me want to get into wine blogging.  And for that post, you will have to wait.  Lets talk about what wine “sparked” my interest.

This time for Wine Blogging Wednesday, hosted by The Corkdork, we were given the task of going back to the start and find that spark that started it all for us.  This one was easy for me, because not only did it get my juices flowing and totally sparked my interest in wine; but to this day it still is my favorite white varietal.

Gewürztraminer

I was captivated the first time I tried this variety.  I can remember my very first bottle —  Fetzer’s Gewürztraminer.  The nose, that spicy, floral aromatic nose.  The zippy acidity, the lush mouth filling tropical fruit palate with hints of roses.  You either love it or hate it, there is almost no in between.

Gewürztraminer grows best in cool climates and it is a very temperamental grape.  It hates chalky soils.  Loves cool nights and warm days.  It buds early and is susceptible to frost.  Loves dry weather, and can rot with too much rain.  Too much heat will increase the sugar levels bringing you high alcohol along with great aroma and flavors, but then has no acidty to balance it out.  If you pick early to hold the acidity, you lose all of those wonderful aromatics.   When it is time to harvest, and i saw this first hand, it could be flat and have no flavor, when the next day it is ready for picking, it is a very erratic grape.  It has a pink to red colored skin which when pressed exhibits golden white juice.  It can be dry, to off dry to sweet in flavor thanks to its high amount of natural sugar.  Rose water, lychee and passion/tropical fruit flavors are very typical of Gewürztraminer.

So why do I love thee.  I don’t know.  I can’t put my finger on it.  Sure I love asian and spicy dishes and they say that it goes great with it.  Gewürztraminer is worldly known as and Alsatian wine and I love Alsatian/German food.  I love goulash and noodles with Gewürztraminer.  I have always wanted to try cochinita pibil with Gewürztraminer, I think they would go great together.  I love it as a late harvest wine, since it can develop alot of sugars it is perfect for a desert wine or a late harvest wine.  In the winter months, it is my favorite white varietal to drink.  There is just so many reasons I like it it’s to hard to pick one.  I also like to say Gewürztraminer

The one Gewürztraminer that received alot of attention around my house lately is Anthony Nappa Wines Spezia ($18).  Gewürztraminer translated means Spice Traminer. This wine is named Spezia because Specia is spice in Italian.  The origin of the  grape Traminer is from a  town in northern Italy called Tramin where German is the spoken as well as Italian.

Anthony Nappa, winemaker and co-owner of Anthony Nappa Wines, along with his new bride Sarah Nappa,  almost never got to make this wine.  Joe Riley, a grower in Cutchogue had some Gewürztraminer that was contracted out to some one else.  The grapes had developed some botrytis and the person walked away.  Long afer most had picked their reds in the grand 2010 vintage, Joe Riley still had the Gewürztraminer hanging.  Anthony went down to see it and decided to take it.  It was almost a late harvest Gewürztraminer and over 80 % of the grapes were affected with botrytis.  But thanks to it being a hot dry season, it had all dried out and it was full of noble rot.  When it came time to make the wine, Anthony had to decide what to do with it, go late harvest desert wine and make it sweet or go make a bone dry wine.  What Anthony came up with is like no other Gewürztraminer I have ever had before, and one I may never have again.

On the nose you pick up a ton of aromatics, rose petal, peach apricot, lychee, tropical fruit and spice.  THere is some mango, dried pineapple and dried ginger tucked in there as well.  If you love aromatic whites, you would want to go swimming in the glass.

The palate brings more of the nose aromas but with a more intense dried tropical fruit and spice note.  Here is where I picked up the botrytis.  It’s noticeable and enjoyable.  Dried pineapple, dried apple, lychee, mango, dried coconut, ginger, citrus and floral notes all appear on the palate.

The palate is lush and oily, thanks mainly to the botrytis.  You can pick up the heat of the wine, there is 14.6% abv.  But it is well-balanced and well-integrated.  Great acidity makes this viscus wine most enjoyable.

The finish brings more rose petal, herbs and a candied ginger lemon zesty end that lingers for a while.

But were I found this to be absolutely delicious is with food.  Spezia needs food and goes great with it.  To have it alone with out food is an injustice.  I had this with a goulash and noodles and it sang.  The wine cut the richness of the gravy.

I have tasted this wine in multiple stages, at the bottle line, at release, a while after release, at Thanksgiving and just recently as this weekend.  I think that it is hitting its stride and is really starting to open up and become the wine it was intended to be.

Anthony hopes to make Spezia again, but it may not be anything like the 2010 Spezia.  Everything was just right for this wine and it is only starting to come together now.

Well, my spark has been revealed, while some of you may have known it, others may not have.  The wine that started it all for me is one that still captures my attention.  So what sparks you in the wine world.  I would love to know.

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Posted in 2010, Anthony Nappa Wines, Gewürztraminer, Long Island | 4 Comments

Roanoke Vineyards 2009 Rhyme and Meter

Posted on January 16, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

Roanoke Vineyards in Riverhead has produced Chardonnay for years now.  Mainly from vines planted by long time Long Island wine grower Steve Mudd and Roanoke Vineyards co-owner  Rich Pisacano.  Roman Roth, Roanoke Vineyards winemaker, has always made wonderful steel fermented Chardonnay that maybe had a small percentage of barrel fermented chardonnay mixed in to round it out.

The 2009 vintage changed things up a bit for Roanoke Vineyards.  With the extended fall that carried some summer like sun, Roanoke Vineyards hooked up with Sam McCullough and his vineyard in Aquebogue to pull in fruit at 23.5 brix in November 2009.  Once again the put it in the hands of Roman Roth.

Roanoke Vineyards 2009 “Rhyme and Meter” Chardonnay ($30) is the vineyards first barrel fermented chardonnay.  And my response to that is — what took you so long 😉

The nose brought elements of peach apple, spice, pineapple, subtle citrus and nice minerality.  Floral notes appear as the wine warms along with tea leaf notes, pear and fresh-cut cedar and some butter scotch candies.

The palate brings notes of Apple, vanilla, brioche and peach.  Tropical notes and dried pineapple round out the palate with hints of hazelnuts, flint and cedar box.

Rhyme and Meter — poetry in a bottle?  For a first release oaked chardonnay, it does give poetic justice to chardonnay.

Sláinte!

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Posted in Long Island | 2 Comments

Raphael Vineyards 2010 Riesling

Posted on January 13, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

This is the sophomore vintage for Raphael Vineyards Riesling and the first under their winemaker Les Howard.  These are young vines that still need time to develop and as they do I am sure the wine will as well

Raphael 2010 Riesling ($28) is a citrus packed mineral driven wine that you don’t see alot of on Long Island.  It is now sold out at the tasting room, but you may find some in local wine shops.

On the nose I was hit with aroma’s of lime, grapefruit, granny smith apple, lemon and a hint of tangerine.  Floral and grassy there is a salty beach rock aroma in there too.  If you can reserve some for day two, which I did, you will pick up more of the apple and lime notes.

The palate carried over the citrus that I was picking up on the nose with hints of peach and more salinity.

Bright zippy acidity dances on your tongue.    I found that the wine improved with some time open.  The finish delivered some lime and lemon grass notes.

Sláinte!

*I received this bottle as a sample from the vineyard
Posted in 2010, Raphael, Riesling | 2 Comments

What I Did On My Blogger Hiatus

Posted on January 12, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

So you might be wondering what I was up to while I was away from regular blogging.  The long and short answer is I started to get into craft beer.

Sure, I was tasting and drinking wine on occasion, but I found myself reaching for a bottle opener more often than a cork screw.

I tasted and enjoyed alot of beers and while exploring I believe I found my beer  of choice.  Regular readers know how I go had over heels for Cabernet franc.  In the beer world I really started to become a stout fan.  I have always been a fan of the traditional pint of Guinness Stout or Murphy’s Irish Stout.  But it was not until I started to get into craft beers that i realized what a really REALLY good stout is.  And now, I don’t think there is anything that will satisfy me more than a glass of craft stout.

For starters, I have become a craft beer fan of SixPoint’s stuff.  Sweet Action, might be my favorite of their nano-keg lineup, but I also fell in love with Bengali Tiger.  The Crisp, which was in heavy rotation in my fridge over the summer and into the early fall was a nice thirst quenched.  This winter they released a stout called Diesel.

I also tried a few red ales or “sour beers”.  I thought I would find them easy to get into and I thought they would be my new go to beer.  I did like them alot, I just found it difficult to have without food.  I could see some of them with a burger.  For those not in the know, sour beers are brewed with bacteria.  Sound gross.  Brettanomyces, which is a bad thing in wine,  is what helps add to the flavor and kick starts this long ferment.

Like I said earlier,  I really fell in love with were craft stouts.  If you consider yourself a stout lover, you had better make sure you try Sixpoints stout,  Diesel.  Or how about trying Long Ireland‘s Black Friday Imperial Stout under cork and cage.  Even better yet is Brooklyn Brewery‘s Black Opus.  But my favorite stout that I have had thus far is hands down Spider Bite Brewery‘s Boris the Spider Russian Imperial Stout.

Now, I never took tasting notes on them, I just enjoyed them.  It seems that finally after all these years of trying to get into beers, I finally did.  But do I really want to take notes, or should I just enjoy them in my easy chair and slowly but surely become a stout master.   Maybe you will soon find out.

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Posted in Beer, Craft Beer, New York | 2 Comments

Martha Clara Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Franc

Posted on January 10, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

2008 was a tough and challenging vintage.  2009 was the same but it was longer, therefore most vineyards were able to hang their fruit and let it ripen longer in hopes that they could extract the most out of their clusters.

Martha Clara Vineyards in Riverhead never produced a 2008 Cabernet Franc.  It went into other blends.  It just was not good enough to stand out on its own.

Martha Clara Vineyards 2009 Cabernet Franc ($22) brings a well mixed bag of fruit, spice and earthy herbs, with dried herbs taking the lead.

The nose brings your traditional Cabernet Franc aroma’s raspberry, cherry, and earthy spice.  The cherry stands out bit more at first.  Then a dried mix of herbs stands out with some smoke and a hint of brown sugar to round out the nose.

The palate brings more earthy, spice notes with more dried herbal notes.  Cherry and raspberry take a back seat on the palate.  Bright acidity with smooth tannins that are well-integrated into the wine.  It was balanced with a finish of coca powder, mint and subtle cherry.

Sláinte!

*I received this bottle as a sample from the vineyard
Posted in 2009, Cabernet Franc, Long Island, Martha Clara | Leave a comment

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2010 Chardonnay

Posted on January 6, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

You have all heard me mention how great the 2010 vintage was, no need to bring it up again.  It has also been mentioned that the 2010 vintage may have been a bit too hot for the Sauvignon Blanc grape.  I did mention on and off here that the 2010’s, save a few Sauvignon Blanc’s , were a bit out of whack.

In my opinion the one white wine grape that has done very well in 2010 was chardonnay.

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2010 Chardonnay ($19) is a 100% steel fermented chardonnay.  It did see extended contact with the lees following fermentation, which always brings an added depth and dimension to steel fermented chardonnay.

On the nose I picked up classic chardonnay notes, apple, pear and spice.  Floral with a bread like or even croissant like nose with a hint of baking spice , fresh hazelnut and stoney minerality.

The palate brought more apple and pear and spice followed by a ripe tropical fruit note like mango and papaya.  Some dried pineapples make  an appearance.  A lush and creamy mouth feel is brought to you in part to the 8 months it sat on the lees.  There is a bit of heat on the palate, something you can expect from a vintage like 2010.

Bright clean acidity made me keep coming back for another sip.  The finish was moderate with some baked apple notes.

When I was done tasting this bottle, I went back to look at my notes when I tasted this at Shinn Estate Vineyards “Shinn-Dig” — their annual wine futures dinner event.  Here is what I thought of this same chardonnay in February 2011:

2010 Chardonnay:  Stainless steel fermented, this is the wine that captured all of our attention.  It was my favorite of the night.  A cloudy glass was poured for us — this happens to be the only “unfinished wine” as the lees are still be stirred — it did not distract from aroma and flavors.  Apple, pear, white almonds and hazelnuts with hints of mango, peach and spice filled the glass.  There was a richness that I was picking up on the nose, buttery and creamy like, but I could just not pinpoint it.  When tasted, there was bright acidity, with apple and spice showing through.  Then came elements of fresh tropical fruit, pineapple, mango, star fruit and warm spice notes.  There was a bit of heat I was picking up on the finish, but remember, it is still not finished.  I think our group bought a case or two of this, and we never buy a case of Chardonnay.  This is one to watch.

Sláinte!

Posted in 2010, Chardonnay, Long Island, Shinn Estate Vieyard | 2 Comments

WTF Is Going On With This Blog?!?!

Posted on January 5, 2012 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

That’s what I am asking myself today.  I am sure some of you who have read this and continue to read this blog are asking as well.  And rightfully so.  It has been over a month since I posted and I think I posted 3 times in 2 months.  This blog fell off the deep end and I never threw a life preserver.  Is there still a chance to save it?  I think so.

There is bullet list of reason for my blog tanking.  But lets face it, after May, it got real empty here.  Sure, I could blame running around after a one year old.  Or  how about the fact that my duties as President of the Medford Chamber of Commerce started to take its toll.  Another reason, the loss of my grandfather is one that I still struggle with.  Could I blame the secrete society of unnamed wine tasters that I run, it has consumed alot of my time.  Or how about my work, we have had one of the busiest years in over 3 years.  Pick one, any one, they all work.

One of the many reasons I started to tread water with blogging was due to the fact that I was just not delivering the goods.  My writing sucked ( I am not a writer at all, and I don’t pretend to be).  The more I wrote, the worse my posts seemed to be.  I got bored writing about what I was tasting.  But I never got bored tasting.

Another reason that weighted heavy on me is the fact that maybe I was too honest.  There is not an evil bone in my body and I always look for the good in everything and by doing that I try to pump things up and make them bigger than what they are.  That sometimes can cloud ones view.  I thought to myself, maybe if I was just honest instead of trying to coax something out of nothing.  That is one thing I think I will always struggle with.

However, one of the main problems that came into play this year was a story I could have written, a negative story about trials and tribulations of a vineyard.  It would have been about neglect and ultimately loss.  I had some inside scoop and I could have been a real reporter and reported about things from the inside.  It would have fit in to my thoughts of bringing you my adventures in wine country.  But because I am a cheerleader of the Long Island wine country, this story would not have fit me, it would have changed me and who I am on this blog.  It could have hurt people and it could have excelled me as a reporter.  I chose not to write about it and take the high road.  I even thought of writing it as a ghost writer and publishing it elsewhere, in the end I chose not to.  It ate at me all year-long.  Since it ate at me, I pushed myself further and further away from my blog.  And it hurt my blog.  That one story I could have written and did not write  weighed on me and hurt the stories I tried to write and never got to write.

I never got to write about the great tasting I had with Raphael’s new wine maker Les Howard and how his 2010’s were doing and the interesting direction he was taking his wines.  I never got to write about Anthony Nappa’s Winemaker Studio’s grand opening.  I never got to write about the opening of Empire State Cellars either.  I never got to talk about Evan Dawson’s great book “Summer in a Glass” which I found so inspiring.  I was never able to write about the 2008 Merlot Tasting I held for my tasting group ( I may try to resuscitate that one) .  I never got to visit with Kelly at Macari, or Patrick at Shinn, or visit with Jake at Jamesport. The barrel tastings I did with Edward at Pindar and the tastings at Channing Daughters never saw the light of day.  I never got to talk about the Cabernet Franc Tasting for HARVEST at Clovis Point and more importantly, I never got to work an hour of harvest this 2011 season.

I am not beating my self up here, I am just trying to be honest and let you know what is going on in my head.  What inspired me to “rant” about this were two blogs.  The first one, The Passionate Foodie, Richard Auffrey’s well done adventures in wine, food and sake his rant, “Wine Bloggers, I Call You Out Once Again” put all bloggers up to a challenge.  And another, Evil Bottle’s post, “The Wine Blogger Dilemma”, both made me think and reassess what I am doing here on my blog.  Last year, Richard put all bloggers up to a challenge and I failed at it.  This year he called us out once again and I am going to try to redirect this blog.  The Evil Bottle is a new blog for me, one I found when reading Richards post.  Both of them made me stop and think and now I am in the process of refining things here on my blog.

So where is this going to go, what am I going to bring you in 2012.  I think I have the answer.  Honest wine reviews.  Interviews with the people in wine country.  And the occasional barrel tasting, wine country events I attend and some random thoughts of mine.  Nothing less than that and if you happen to get something more, then we both will win.

I am not a wine expert, I hold no credentials.  I have a nose, a plate and an enjoyment for wine.  What I would like to do with this blog is bring you along with me on this educational journey.  I will let you know what I am tasting, what I thought of it and hopefully a little about what went into the bottle.  I am not going to score the wine, I am not going to recommend the wine and I am not going to tell you not to try it.  You should be able to pick them up from my posts.

I am also not a writer, like I said earlier.  My grammar will suck and there will be some run on sentences and spelling errors.  I will do my best to make it perfect, but after all, this dyslexic wine taster is “editing and publishing” my own stories.

One thing I would like to bring you, but I am not sure I will deliver it acutely is wine from other regions.  As my palate has expanded and I believe I have fine tuned it, I have tasted wines from around the world.  Some good, some eh and some bad.  This is important as my palate grows and as yours should as well.

So expect some subtle changes in the posts, maybe they will not be that noticeable.  I hope to post as often as I did in the past, three post per week, there were some weeks when I had as many as five.  No matter what happens on UndertakingWine.com, I want it to be productive and inspiring.  I want you to want to go out and buy that bottle of wine or visit that winery I talk about.  Let’s enjoy this ride again, I am looking forward to 2012 in wine country.  I hope you are too.

Posted in Uncategorized | 9 Comments

Influence Wines 2010 Riesling

Posted on November 21, 2011 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

Erik Bilka has made wine for some time for many people on Long Island.  As a production wine maker at Premium Wine group, he probably had his hands on some of your favorite wines.  But you did not know it.

In 2009, Erik, a Buffalo, NY native took the opportunity to make wine under his own label and put his name on the bottle.  So Influence Wines was born.  I really liked Erik’s 2009 release and I was looking forward to the 2010 release.

In 2010 Erik continued to make wine, this time he purchased grapes from Dalrymple farms in the Finger Lakes on Seneca Lake.  His Influence was found for sure in the winemaking.  No added sugar, no added acid, it shows true essence of the Riesling grape and the region it was planted in, the Finger Lakes.

Here you can read from Influence Wines website what happened to the grapes at harvest and how they arrived on Long Island:

Once harvested, Influence Riesling is delivered to White Springs Winery in Geneva, NY on Seneca Lake, where the experienced staff led by Derek Wilber crush, press, and cold settle the juice, which is then shipped to Premium Wine Group on the North Fork of Long Island. Upon arrival, winemaker Erik P. Bilka begins the winemaking process. The juice is fermented in stainless steel tanks. Before completion fermentation is halted in order to maintain the natural residual sugars found in this semi-dry vintage. The refining process which involves separating natural occurring sediment from the final product is done delicately in order to preserve the fruits integrity.

On the nose aroma’s of fresh sliced peach, tropical pineapple and stoney minerality jump out at you.  Lime, more tropical fruit and some dried fruits rise up as the wine warms to room temperature.

On the palate lime, citrus, melon, pear and peach mix beautifully with bright acidity and just a hint of residual sugar.

On day two there were some tea leaf elements and some tropical notes with a hint of wet slate.

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Posted in 2010, Finger Lake Region, Influence Wines, Long Island, Riesling | 2 Comments

Bedell Cellars 2009 Cabernet Franc

Posted on November 19, 2011 by Michael Gorton, Jr.

Most of the 2007 red wines are gone from the tasting rooms, but some have still some they are holding on to.  Some wineries are rolling out the 2008 reds at this point and some are even rolling out 2009’s.  2008 was a challenging year, but the 2008’s that I tasted remind me of some of the 2006’s.  2008 will not go down as a great vintage,  non-the-less, with a little time in the bottle, you can find some diamonds in the rough.

Rich Olsen Harbich, winemaker at Bedell Cellars did not make this wine, Kelly Urbanik started it, Rich finished it.

The Bedell Cellars 2009 Cabernet Franc ($30) is a beautiful wine that shows why Cabernet Franc when in the right hands, is perfect for the Long Island Region no matter the vintage.

On the nose, loads of cherry, raspberry, dried strawberry and cedar lead the way with notes of dried herbs like sage and thyme are in the back ground.  Earthy spice notes emerge with a hint of vanilla bean.

The palate brings more cherry and raspberry with a hint of bay leaf and more earthy aroma’s.  Some smoky, sweet tobacco/cedar box flavors also develop with time in the glass.

Unfortunately, this wine is sold out at the winery, however, I have noticed it at a few local wine shops.

Sláinte!

*I received this bottle as a sample from the vineyard
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Posted in 2009, Bedell, Cabernet Franc, Long Island | 1 Comment