Two Years & 206 Posts Later…

On July 27th 2009, I embarked on a journey with this blog trying to talk about the wine region I love so much.

My first post was a review of Shinn Estate Vineyards  2006 Wild Boar Doe.  And from there my journey of mostly wine reviews continued.  While I tried to move away from those reviews, I found it difficult, which I still do.  I am in comfort zone with reviews.

Sure, I got to work a day or two during the 2009 harvest.  Sure, I attended barrel tastings and events.  Sure I got to meet winemakers and get to know the region a bit better.  This was all done to introduce the Long Island Wine Country to a bigger audience.  I hope that I have in some way done that.

When I hit my 100th post on March 31, 2010, I wrote about taking things up a level, moving away from the reviews and trying to take steps to do less “safe” blog posts.  I tried to push myself and push the envelope and make this more of journey as opposed to a log of tasting notes.

Needless to say, as I look at my 205 posts to date, I failed at what I wanted to do from March 31, 2010 moving forward.

On July 27, 2010, I hit the one year anniversary of my first post.  That day marked the birth of my son, Gabriel.  I remember my wife sleeping and I trying to sleep in a hospital chair as we wait in Stony Brook Hospital as the slowly started to induce labor.  I typed that post on my blackberry and posted it early that morning, waiting for my son to be born.

The year since then you have seen less blog posts thanks in part to my son and my role as President of the Medford Chamber of Commerce.  Two roles I am proud to have.

One year later, two years into this blog, a father, a leader and a husband.  All wonderful.  However, blogger, I think I have failed miserably.

This is not where I wanted to take Undertaking Wine.  I have done very little undertaking on the blog.  I have done alot of tasting though.  There are times I sit and think that I have failed, you my readers.  That I can do better.  I want to do better.

Where will this blog go in the next year — probably down the same review driven path,  but for your sake and my sake, I hope not.

Please be patient with me while I work through these “growing pains”.  I really want to do more with this, and I know I can, I just need time to figure it out.

I know that this post may seem like I am beating myself up, and I might be a little.  It is my way of pointing out my flaws and critiquing myself.  I love blogging and talking about wine.  I just need to do a better job of writing and posting and undertaking wine.

Keep reading this blog and keep drinking the local wine that I love so much.  I will find that niche and the itch again, but for now, things may stay things as they are on a limited basis.

Thank you to my readers, you know who you are.  Thank you to my wife Melissa, who allows me to follow my passion and keep this hobby.  Thank you to my son Gabriel who is the best thing I ever made.  Thank you to all who inspire me, whether you write, tweet or talk about wine, you help me.  Most importantly, thank you to all the Long Island wine makers, you inspire me and make the best wine.  Continue to grow this region.

Sláinte!

Posted in Notes, Thoughts | 1 Comment

The People of Wine Country: Getting to Know….Scott Sandell

"The Pier" by Scott Sandell

It’s been a while since I posted a getting to know you, the last two were with winemakers.  I wanted to take this in a different direction and include some folk that work behind the scenes and may not get to meet .  Today I am sitting down with Scott Sandell, Roanoke Vineyards Media and Creative Director.  Scott is responsible for all the wine labels on Roanoke Vineyards bottles since 2000, the printed tasting notes and tasting menu’s you find in the Tasting Room among other things (check out some of Scott’s artwork on his website, www.deepwaterprojects.net) .  He first met Rich Pisacano, the owner of Roanoke Vineyards when Scott rented a studio across from Wolffer Estate Vineyards.  In 2008 Scott was appointed Creative Director.  Here is how Scott explains how he came to be the creative director, “I was working on an artists’ book project with Chris Watkins, who is one of the best poets I’ve ever read, and who was Managing Director at Roanoke. Chris moved to Ridge Vineyards in California in 2008. Next thing I knew I was organizing the first Winemakers’ Smackdown. Careful what you wish for!”  He is part of the team that came up with the idea for the “Samckdowns” along with Adam Ehmer, Roanoke’s Wine Librarian Emeritus.

So now, sit open a bottle and enjoy our little conversation with Scott Sandell.

1)      When was the moment you said to yourself, “I want to part of the wine industry!”?

My cousin graduated from law school about the same time I graduated from art school, and at a graduation party he walked up to me and said “We need to develop an extensive knowledge of fine wine because that’s really going to help us in our careers.” We left the party and headed for the biggest wine store in downtown Minneapolis. Then proceeded to fill a shopping cart with Chateau Lafite, Margaux, Mouton, Haut Brion, and Latour (remember this was 1975, and these were $20 a bottle). The next stop was a corkscrew and a tuna fish sandwich (which we thought paired pretty well with the First Growths, especially when you added Doritos in the mix). We got to the Mouton, and I learned that they commissioned an artist to do the label each year, and the artist was paid in wine; this was my gig! Years went by, and the Baron Phillipe Rothschild died before he had a chance to call me, but luckily Rich Pisacano did, and the Roanoke labels have been a gallery for my work ever since.

2)      Desert Island question – Unlimited case of what wine?

Any Roman Roth wine would be great (Gabby’s Cab Franc!).  Past that, maybe the Tablas Creek Esprit de Beaucastel? If the island is a cool climate I’m gonna need an Orin Swift wine.

3)      What is your favorite varietal?

I’ve been a huge Cabernet Sauvignon fan since my initial introduction to wines from Bordeaux, however we (Roanoke) have such a way with Cab Franc that it would be hard to ignore CF in the decision. That said, I love a great Chardonnay (Long Island, California, Burgundy), and am totally into Grenache of late.

4)      When you are not at Roanoke Vineyards, where can we find you spending your time?

This is easy, I’m in the studio. At this point I don’t know if my secret life is working with Roanoke, or working as an artist. I do both full time (don’t try this at home!). Last year I managed to have three museum shows (one solo), pull off a couple big commissions, and still spend a few days sailing. I just finished a new portfolio of large scale prints (they’re 5′ long, see attached), and an installation at U Penn.  Right now I’m working on a few commissions including a very large piece for the Consol Energy Center in Pittsburgh (this is for a particularly difficult space, and it’s 40 feet long).

5)      If you are not drinking wine, what’s in your glass?

Coffee!!!!!!!

6)      Favorite Roanoke Vineyard wine?

The 2009 Marco Tulio is pretty incredible, but there are some awesome wines ahead including a 2010 field blend with Gabby’s Cab Franc and Cab Sauvignon from the Hill. We have the 2009 Prime Number (just about to be bottled), and a 2010 barrel Chardonnay that I feel are absolutely unmatched for quality. I’m in the lucky position of knowing the wines from bud break to bottling, and I have to say what we’ve been able to accomplish in the last couple years in the vineyard is amazing.

7)      Favorite Long Island Wine?

Outside of Roanoke, I admire the focus and intensity of the Grapes of Roth Merlot. I think Chris Tracy has assembled a spectacular portfolio. My friend Miguel Martin (Palmer) appears frequently on my dinner table, and the region has many rising stars like Kareem Massoud, Kelly Urbanik, and Jimmy Waters.

8)      IF you are not drinking wine from long Island, where is the bottle from?

Bordeaux, Languedoc, California!

9)      Most Memorable Bottle?

I was at a pretty awful dinner party when a ’97 Lenz Merlot was opened (game changer!).

Then I was at a great dinner party when the host opened The Prisoner, which was brought to mind the slogan from a triple X rated film: “Pleasure so intense . . . .”

10)   Your last meal would consist of what wine and food?

I think a boxed Chablis and a box of White Castle burgers would probably kill me.

Posted in Long Island, Roanoke Vineyards, Tasting Wine With, The People of Wine Country, Wine | 3 Comments

A Visit to Bedell Cellars

A while back I finally had the opportunity to meet up with Rich Olsen-Harbich, the new winemaker at Bedell Cellars.  I was interested to catch up with Rich, since this was the first time I had a chance to meet him at his new digs.

Rich has been making wines for over 30 years on Long Island at various vineyards and consulting as well.  Last summer Rich left Raphael for Bedell Cellars where Rich now can work with some of Long Island’s oldest vines.

Rich gave me a short tour and went over the lay out of the cellar and what he had going on in tanks.  There is nothing more exciting or enticing than the aroma of a barrel cellar.

Between tastings, Rich and I had conversations about our families, parenting, my life as a funeral director, his life as a winemaker.  We both are intrigued with each others profession — no surprise there.  When I taste with Rich and we have conversations, it like talking with an old friend.

We chatted for a bit then Rich let the tasting of the 2010 wines start with some Sauvignon Blanc.  Some of the wines we tasted still have no final home.  Some will end up in blends some will go in to single varietal bottling.  Rich said it is too soon to say as the trial blending is just starting to happen for the First Crush, Taste White and Gallery.

To give you an idea as to the different labels and their profile, First Crush is a blended white in fermented in stainless steel that exhibits bright aromas with vibrant thirst quenching flavors.  Taste White is a white blend that showcases the aromatics and the mouth feel of the blend.  The last blend is the Gallery blend, where the focus is on the barrel fermenting of the white blends that go into Gallery.  There is something for everyone and there is a progression that everyone can follow along with or stick with one.

The Barrel Cellar. From Bedell's Facebook Page.

First up were two lots of Sauvignon blanc, one from Bedell and one from Split Rock, in Greenport, near the Shady Lady.  The Bedell was crisp and refreshing while the Split Rock was more vicus, almost a little oily.  Based on the example about the different white blends, The Bedell cellars Sauvignon Blanc will go into first crush and Split rock will more than likely go into Taste White.

Two wines that stood out that were stainless steel and fermented with indigenous yeast, by the way, all the wines for 2010 were fermented with indigenous yeast.  The 2010 Viognier was an absolute delight.  Some of this will go into a single varietal bottling.  Fermentation stopped on this with some natural residual sugar, but the bright acidity that is the back bone of this wine will carry it.  An absolute delicious satisfying wine.  This should be a crowd pleaser.  I believe that this will be the first release of Vioginer by Bedell.  It will be a limited production wine.

The 2010 Gewürztraminer, from two vineyards, Bedell’s site and at Corey Creek were to complete opposite.  Putting the together with the right blend will showcase one delicious Gewürztraminer.  The Bedell Cellars Gewürztraminer was a classic Alsatian Gewürztraminer, bone dry with notes of floral, lychee and spice with the Corey creek was more restrained with a mineral streak.

We then went on to the barrel fermented wines.  Most of these wines will wind up in the Gallery wine.  The Chardonnay, which was just taken out of barrel to reserve the fruit character, showed delicious apple and bright acidity with the classic flinty, buttery toast that you could smell as Rich opened up the valve on the tank.

Another standout was what is temporally being called “Pasión” thanks to cellar master Seferino.  Pasión which translated means Passion, gets its name from the up front note of Passion Fruit.  Tropical notes like star fruit, mango and papaya also come to mind with a bright acidity and lovely lush mouth feel.  This is a blend of Chardonnay, Viognier, Gewürztraminer and Sauvignon Blanc.  One of my favorite tastings and samples I had.  There is only one barrel of this blend that was fermented together.  It will most likely be used in Gallery.

We then moved onto the red wines.  Merlot is the dominant grape planted there.  Rich explained the soil differences at Bedell and how one block of Merlot tastes very different from the other block.  FOr example, the south block of row can and does taste remarkably different from the north block.  It may sound strange and hard to understand, but a sudden but slight slope change will change the flavor and aroma of the same clone and same row of wine.  This all came together tasting the Merlot.  All picked on the same day from the same vineyard processed in the same way, from the same 30-year-old vines, show very different levels of aroma and flavor.  Is this an example of Terrior?  Terrior is the french meaning of the world land when talking about wine and the place it comes from.  I have a hard time grasping Terrior, but this Merlot demonstration helped a little.

The Merlot still was developing, it needed time to pull it self together, while the Cabernet Franc — that was coming together nicely.  Three different lots, Bedell, Corey Creak and Wells Road all showed classic Cabernet Franc notes, reminiscent of the 2007 vintage, but much more light in style and more finesse.  All three tasted different, but when I put them together in my mind and tried to blend them, this could be potentially a remarkable well balance, true Cabernet Franc.  Rich told me that the Cabernet Franc was nowhere near it is now as when he tasted it a few weeks back.  Notes of ripe fruit, juicy berries — raspberry, strawberry and cassis with herbal notes and a touch of plum and raisins.  When one says raisins, one may think that the fruit was over ripe, but not in this case.  This was the element of the beautiful fruit that was part of the 2010 season.  Rich really like the way Cabernet Franc was showing from 2010.

Another wine blend that Rich is working on is a Syrah & Viognier blend made in the Côte-Rôtie style.  In Côte-Rôtie Syrah and Viognier are harvested together and fermented together to creat this wine.  Up to 20% can be used.  Rich has included about 5% Viognier.  Just that small amount really lifts up the wine.  For example, the regular syrah from the barrel has a more meaty and masculine black pepper spice to it.  When the Vioginer is added, there is a floral element to the wine and the masculine meaty black pepper turns into a soft, white pepper almost feminine quality.  It is softer, more aromatic, and brings another demintion to the wine.  I like Syrah and I like syrah done in this way.  I will be keeping my eyes out for this one.

We finished up the tasting that night with a look at the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon.  Bedell used to bottle Cabernet Sauvignon, but in recent years it would wind up being blended away.  Rich wanted to change that and he wanted to try something different with it.  In Bordeaux, a practice was used where black tarp is used to cover the vines of the Cabernet Sauvignon.  This was done first to deflect water and second it helps reflect the heat of the sun.  It is done usually a few weeks before harvest to help ripen the fruit and complexity.  In the trials where it was done, there were noticeable differences between he Cabernet with out the black tarp and the Cabernet with the black tarp.

When I tasted this wine that night there were ripe flavors of blackberry and chocolate with hints of rich earthiness.  Vibrant acidity and smooth velvety tannins made this a fruit forward wine on the nose and palate.  Days after the tasting, I found myself wishing this was ready for the bottle and I had some readily available.  This is one wine to watch for in the future.

Rich is definitely making his mark and leaving his finger prints on one of the oldest vineyards on Long Island.  The 2010 vintage will showcase Rich and his 30 plus years working the vineyards of Long Island.  There is excitement at Bedell, and there is excitement with in Rich.  30 years is a long time to make wine, I have a feeling the next 30 years are going to keep getting better and better.

Posted in 2010, Barrel Tasting, Bedell, Long Island, Looking at the Future Through a Barrel, Winery Visit | 3 Comments

Waters Crest Winery 2007 Campania Rosso

This red blend from Jim Waters, proprietor and winemaker at Waters Crest Winery in Cutchogue is delicious blend of 78% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Franc, and 16% Cabernet Sauvignon.

Waters Crest Winery 2007 Campania Rosso ($50) is a limited production wine; only 77 cases of this wine were made.  I believe that this is sold out in the tasting room, but you may find it on restaurant wine lists out on the North Fork and NYC.

On the nose, delicious note of plum, cherry and chocolate dominate with  earth, spice and smoke.  Secondary aromas that develop as the wine sits in the glass are notes of cardamom, dried oregano hints of vanilla, bacon, lavender and tobacco.  There is a delicious note of an old wine cellar; a note I really like in a red wine.

On the palate, plum, spice, smoke, toasty oak and crushed pepper jump out of the glass right away.  Flavors of cinnamon, mint, currants, tobacco, earth and hints of vanilla round out the palate.

Bright acidity is up front with smooth velvety tannins.  The finish is long with hints of dried cherries and dried herbs.

Some might balk at the $50 price tag, but knowing that this is from the great 2007 vintage and all North Fork fruit, it has the ability to age.  If you have a bottle or two, you are lucky, hold onto them and open them up in a few years, they have the ability to age for a while.

Sláinte!

*I received this bottle as a sample from the vineyard
Posted in 2007, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvigon, Merlot, Waters Crest Winery | Leave a comment

Pindar Vineyards 2010 Sauvignon Blanc

It is officially summer on Long Island and that means you will find Sauvignon Blanc or Rose in my glass.  You might see me squeeze in a Cabernet Franc here and or a Chardonnay there, but it all depends on my mood.

When Edward Lovaas, Pindar Vineyards assistant winemaker arrived from California, Long Island Wine Country wondered what Edward would bring to the North Fork from his Mendocino roots.  No matter what he brought to his wines,  he wanted to make sure that they had “impeccable balance“.

This Pindar Vineyards 2010 Sauvignon Blanc ($13) is any sign of what Edward will be doing in the cellar, Pindar Vineyards has nice things to look forward to.  This Sauvignon Blanc is like no other I have tasted in a while.

On the nose you pick up this enticing musky aroma with hints of gooseberry, grapefruit and citrus.  Notes of sweet basil, grass honeydew melon, peach and cut grass also evolve.

When tasted the palate brings the aroma’s full circle with more grapefruit and citrus with hints of gooseberry, fresh herbs and a hit of salinity.

Bright clean acidity is shows with a lush mouthfeel and a richness that shows great balance.

A delicious finish of fresh melon, grapefruit and fresh herbs carry this wine.  It brings you back for more.

This Sauvignon Blanc is a tremendous value at $13.  It has shown well at dinner parties in my house and will continue to be on my table through out the summer.

Sláinte!

*I received this bottle as a sample from the vineyard
Posted in 2010, Long Island, Pindar, Sauvignon Blanc | Leave a comment

Martha Clara Vineyards 2009 “66:34” Semillon/Sauvignon Blanc Blend

Martha Clara Vineyards  does really cool things for their wine club members.  Sure they get a discount, sure they get invited to release parties, but the wines they offer to their wine club members is what makes it all the worth while.

This bottle, Martha Clara Vineyards 2009 “66:34” ($20) is the perfect example.  It is part of the Lagniappe series.  Lagniappe (pronounced lan-yap) is a southern, mainly Louisianan term for a small gift given to a customer.  It’s kinda like a baker’s dozen, a little something extra.

Juan Micieli-Martinez, Head WInemaker and General Manager at Martha Clara Vineyards described Lagniappe in an email best, “it is a New Orléans term meaning a little something extra.  So, if you went into a Po-Boy shop and ordered a shrimp po-boy dressed with french fries and the server brought you the sandwich he/she would say something like, “Here’s your po-boy with fries and we put some hush-puppies on, that’s lagniappe.””

Juan came up with the idea for the Lagniappe series and this is the third offering in that series.  The 2007 Malbec was the first which was then followed by the 2009 Syrah Rose and now Semillon & Sauvignon Blanc blend.  He explains his reasoning for the Lagniappe series, “I figured we were making wines that were intended for the wine club only that were outside of our normal production, so I said let’s call the series The Langniappe Series.”  He continued, ” Bottom line is that we have the grapes, why not have some fun and blend!”

Obviously this is a classic white bordeaux blend but Juan also hinted that his inspiration for this wine was from his time he spent in Western Australia, “You can find beautiful Semillon/Sauv. Blanc blends in the Margaret River area.”

The artwork is not complete yet, Juan said that they are working with a Professor of Graphic Design from Loyola University in New Orléans for the Langniappe Series, hence the simple label.  Juan also hinted at a label design change with the 2010 red wines and the 2011 white wines.  This is defiantly something to keep your eyes on.

Now that you know a little bit about the Lagniappe Series, lets talk about this addition to the series, Martha Clara vineyards 2009 “66:34”.  A stainless steel co-ferment of 66% Semillion and 34% Sauvignon Blanc estate grown grapes.  It saw no oak and no Malolactic fermentation.  There was some lees contact post ferment which helps give it some body.  Only 200 cases were made.

On the nose aromas of lime, peach, white flowers, tea leaves clover and minerals jump out at you first.  Some secondary aroma’s at emerge as it sits in the glass and come off chill are tropical fruit like mango and papaya, hints of cantaloupe, almond and grapefruit.

On the palate the wine hits you with more lime and white flowers like a jasmine flower, bit-o-honey candy like taste with notes of peach pineapple and beach rock.  Secondary flavors of melon and green tea emerge as the wine warms up.

A delicious finish of ripe honeydew melon and fresh lime juice linger on the palate with some more clover honey and tea.  The wine is rich and lush thanks in part to the Semillion, which can have an oily sensation and the extra lees contact really gave it an extra roundness.

Consider joining Martha Clara Vineyards wine club and you could receive Lagniappe.

Sláinte!

*I received this bottle as a sample from the vineyard
Posted in 2009, Blended Wine, Long Island, Martha Clara, Sauvignon Blanc, Semillon, White Wine | 2 Comments

Palmer Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon

 

Palmer Vineyards on Sound Avenue in Aquebogue can be an under the radar winery. Owned by the late Robert Palmer’s family he marketed Palmer Vineyards and made it a brand.  Since Miguel Martin, the Spanish-born and talented winemaker at Palmer came on board in 2006, he has made great strides in improving that brand with quality wine.

Palmer Vineyards will always be the place that turned me on to Gewürztraminer, it will also be the first vineyard that my wife and I ever had Cabernet Franc, (which we hated, but now love).  I have always been a fan of Miguel’s Sauvignon Blanc, Rose of Merlot, and in 2009 I thought his Riesling was one of the best of the 2009 vintage.  Today, he may be know for bringing Albariño to Long Island (should be tasting it this week) or nailing Chateau Montelena’s Chardonnay at the Smackdown, but the Cabernet Sauvignon that he made in 2007 captivated me.

Palmer Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Sauvignon ($24) is a top 3 Cabernet Sauvignon from that vintage for me.  I found this wine delicious, approachable and affordable.

On the nose notes of blackberry, cassis, leather and tobacco cigar box lead the nose with hints of spice, earth, tar, espresso and sweet vanilla finish out the secondary aromas.

On the palate the wine brings ripe juice dark fruit, blackberry, plum, prune and dried black cherry.  Delicious cocoa powder, anise and clove spice mingle with the fruit forward palate.

Velvet smooth tannins with mouth-watering acidity balance out the palate with a smoky dried herbal meets mixed berry bramble finish.

This wine, at under $25 is a huge value considering the great 2007 vintage and the ageability of this wine.  Go and get some of this wine and hold onto it for a while.  You will be rewarded.

Posted in 2007, Cabernet Sauvigon, Long Island, Palmer Vineyards | Leave a comment

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Franc

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2007 Cabernet Franc was one of the best Cabernet Franc’s I have ever had.  A “benchmark” wine is a description that was tossed around in various wine circles.  When the 2007 Cabernet Franc sold out, I thought to my self, what would the 2008 be like in comparison.

I should not compare, and I will try not to.  Comparing vintages is fun, but at the same time it is like comparing kids each one is different.  I was always compared to my younger brothers in school because they were smarter than me.  I hated it.  So 2007 is long gone and now we have the next vintage to look forward to.

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2008 Cabernet Franc ($38) is a wonderful followup to its 2007 counterpart.  2008 was not that stellar of a year.  It was nothing like 2007.  But in 2008, with the right practices and the right work in the vineyard and in the cellar, some places were able to get ripe fruit flavors.  And this 2008 from Shinn Estate Vineyards is nothing but ripe.

On the nose there is classic Cabernet Franc aromas — raspberry and cherry; dried herbs like basil and sage; exotic spice like cardamom, coriander and anise.  Notes of fresh earth and juicy fruit bramble mix with some whole black peppercorns.  Hints of dried flowers, bay leaf and savory herbs round out the aromas.

On the palate the aroma of dried savory herbs, like sage lead the way but slowly give off the hints of ripe raspberry and cherry.  Cedar and hints of spice mingle with hints of vanilla, mint and eucalyptus.

The chewy tannins are up front with beautiful bright acidity.  This wine needs decanting.  Once the wine was open for a few hours, it really started to shine.  Complex and packed with nuances — it just kept evolving in my glass

The finish carried the vanilla note with hints of berries and mint.  I was very intrigued by the vanilla.  It added a “sweetness” to the wine.  Not a sugary sweetness, a sweetness that kept me coming back to the glass.

It was interesting, after I tasted the wine, I started to tweet about it.  I was asked how it compared to the 2007.  I said it was a nice follow-up among other things.  Early the next day, I went back to my notes from the  2010 Shinn-Dig I had attended the year earlier and this is what I said about this wine back then:

…. 2008 Cabernet Franc from Shinn Estate Vineyards ($38).  Loads of berries right up front on the nose; Raspberry, cherry, boysenberries and currant.  It was spicy and herbal with some mint and dried basil.  The spice elements of the wine were exotic and arousing, some cinnamon, anise, cardamom and coriander with a  fresh black pepper kick.  It was earthy and tasty.  It was the first wine that I needed a second glass during the tasting and it went perfectly with my second helping of the Duck and lentil stew.  This showed very traditional Shinn elements and is a great follow-up to the current release, the 2007 Cabernet Franc.

Posted in 2008, Cabernet Franc, Long Island, Shinn Estate Vieyard | 1 Comment

Pindar Vineyards 2008 Syrah

For a while now, I have tried to get into this little grape known as Syrah.  There is not too much Syrah here on Long Island, only about a handful of producers locally that bottle it.

Most times when looking for well made Syrah people look to Australia and the birth place of Syrah, Rhone.  But Syrah on Long Island should not be overlooked.  When made correctly, it can shine.  In fact, at a recent blind tasting of Syrah from around the world, two of the top three (out of 13) were from Long Island.

Pindar Vineyards 2008 Syrah ($15) was not part of the recent blind tasting, but I think this offering from Pindar Vineyards would have been right at the top.

On the nose the wine brings notes of cherry, blackberry and currant with bold notes of fresh black pepper and cured meat.  Vanilla, smoke a ground spice follow-up with herbal notes of rosemary and ground espresso.  There is also a subtle floral note that reminded me of dried lavender.

The palate brought notes of earthy spice and black pepper with hints of blackberry and tart cherry.  Smoky with hints of vanilla and cinnamon round out the palate.

The tannins are noticeable up front, but with food they seem to balance out with the acidity and make the wine even more enticing.

Posted in 2008, Long Island, Pindar, Syrah | Leave a comment

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2009 “Haven”

Sauvignon Blanc is slowly becoming the white wine of Long Island.  There are some vineyards across the Island that are doing interesting things with Sauvignon Blanc.  Some are making White Bordeaux blend.  Some are blending it with Chardonnay, some are making Ice Wine with it, some are even adding a little Cabernet Franc to make a rose colored wine.  Then some are barrel fermenting it to give it more body and structure.

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2009 “Haven” ($36) is a blend of 85% Sauvignon Blanc and 15% Semillion that was barrel aged.  A true White Bordeaux blend.  Both grapes are found in bordeaux and are blended together at varying amounts to produce a variety that resembles old world France.

Haven is named after the soil that Cornell University gave to the General Soil of Long Island — well-drained and formed as very fine sandy loam after the ice age many moons ago.

On the nose I was hit a wide array of dried tropical fruit, like mango and pineapple with hints of dried apricot and peach.  juicy star fruit and blanched almond lead the way with hints of banana, fig and white pepper.  What mostly captivated me was this hint of asian tea.

On the palate brought flavors of grapefruit, pineapple and spice with hits of orange zest and citrus pith.

A lush and viscus mouth feel with bright acidity and nutty creaminess.

The finish brought more tea leaf aromas with a hint of nuts and spice.

There may not be too much of this left at this point, but I wanted to share this with you because when the 2010 is released and all subsequent offerings of “Haven” make sure you go out and try this.

Posted in Long Island | 1 Comment

Wine Tasting Charity Event sponsored by New York Cork Report, Peconic Bay Winery and Lacrosse for Autism

Autism-event-bannerOn Saturday, April 30th from 1-4 pm, my friend and brethren in wine Lenn Thompson, is organizing a charity wine tasting event that will benefit The Cody Center for Autism and Developmental Disabilities at Stony Brook University.  He has partnered his blog, The New York Cork Report, New York States go to website for all the latest wine information along with Lacrosse for Autism and Peconic Bay Winery, which will be hosting the event.

I plan on being there that day, along with my son Gabe.  Tickets $40 with a significant part of that going directly to the charity. Attendees will enjoy $2 glasses of wine, all of which will go to the charity, wine-friendly snacks by Keith Luce of Luce-Hawkins, 10% off bottle purchases and access to the silent auction.

This is the NYCR second charity fundraiser.  I missed out on the last one in September that benefited Angelman Syndrome.  It was a great success and Lenn helped raise money and awareness for the cause.  Lenn hopes to do the same again.

The silent auction looks to be delicious and exciting.  I won a case of Peconic Bay Wine last year via texting, this year I will be doing it live.  So far, here are some of the lots that will be part of the auction:

For those of you who have thought about joining Peconic Bay Winery’s Wine Club, wait until that day because Peconic Bay Winery has also generously offered to donate $100 for every attendee who signs up for their wine club.

To order tickets: Call Valerie Hallock at Peconic Bay Winery 631-734-7361.

Posted in Event, Long Island, Peconic Bay Winery | Leave a comment

Waters Crest Winery 2009 Campania Bianco

If you are looking for a fun summer white wine to go with your picnic lunch, this is a wine that I would suggest you look for.  If you are looking for a white wine that will go with fresh Pasta Primavera, I would suggest you look for this wine from Waters Crest Winery.

Waters Crest Winery 2009 Campania Bianco ($24) might be in limited quantity, but year in and year out this is a very nice white wine blend from Jim Waters.

It is composed of 70% Chardonnay, 12% Sauvignon Blanc and 18% Riesling. Each of the three grapes impart their signature qualities to make this wine stand out.  The Chardonnay give this wine a nice roundness.  The Sauvignon Blanc brings a tropical feel with bright acidity and the Riesling adds a delicious crisp and clean minerality.

On the nose you pick up aroma’s of apple, cantaloupe melon and pineapple.  A note of salinity and river rock mix with white peach, mango and hints of honeysuckle.  Faint aromas of grass and hay appear as the wine comes to room temperature.

When tasted you notice the bright and clean acidity with a lush mouth feel.  Flavors of pear, peach and apple stand out with hints of spice.

The wine finishes with a note of rocky minerality.

Sláinte!

*I received this bottle as a sample from the vineyard
Posted in 2009, Blended Wine, Chardonnay, Riesling, Sauvignon Blanc, Waters Crest Winery, White Wine | 4 Comments

Bedell Cellars 2010 Taste Rosé

Bedell Cellars Taste RoseWhen Rich Olsen-Harbich arrived at Bedell Cellars, he wanted to make an impact and impression as soon as he could.  He wanted to put his fingerprint on Bedell Cellars wines.

After discussions with founding winemaker Kip Bedell and the rest of the staff, Rich was going to use indigenous yeast and move in the direction of natural winemaking, something he was doing over in Raphael, with every single variety and varietal.

Corey Creek Vineyards – the sister vineyard in the Bedell Cellars Family – always produced a rose called “Domaines CC Rosé”.  The “CC” for Corey Creek.  That changed when Rich arrived.  Bedell Cellars was going to have a Rosé.

Bedell has a successful Taste lineup with a white blend called Taste White (a review of the 2009 is due soon) and a Taste Red blend.  The Taste lineup is their second tier blends that carry a bit more of a mouth feel.  Now the Taste lineup can add a Rosé to the lineup.

IMG00553-20110409-2114Bedell Cellars 2010 Taste Rosé ($18) is a blend of 62% Merlot, 27% Cabernet Franc, 7% Syrah, 4% Petit Verdot.  It is whole cluster pressed — meaning the grapes clusters are not taken off the stem at harvest and pressed right away.  The juice that flows from the pressing is fermented naturally using indigenous yeast.  That explains the light pink, almost salmon color to the wine.

The Merlot grapes that were used come from a section of the Bedell vineyard, C Block North.  Of all the blocks at Bedell Cellars, this block was typically not making the best red wine.  When Rich makes Rosé he likes to identify and designate the vineyard block that you want to make rose from.  And based on the history of this block, Rich wanted to see what the block was like as harvest approached.  When it was time to make the call, it was designated as rose based on the aromatics.  Rich felt it would be a great block for rose.  So instead of fermenting it in barrel’s, taking up valuable space in the cellar, Rich made the call to turn it into rose.  It turns out to be a great call.

On the nose there are aromas of ruby grapefruit, strawberry and rocky minerality.  Secondary aromas of rhubarb, grape must and savory herbs, like sage.  As the wine warms to room temperature, there are hints of watermelon, raspberry and tropical fruit like star fruit and passion fruit.

On the palate the wine is shows flavors of strawberry and sweet herbs with a rose petal and white pepper twist.  Bright acidity and bone dry it is followed by a round lush mouth feel.

The finish is long with hints of mint and fresh picked strawberry.

It’s the unofficial start of Rosé season here on Undertaking Wine!

Sláinte!

*I received this bottle as a sample from the vineyard

IMG00489-20110309-2052A quick note about this photo:  After I had arrived home from a my visit with Rich at Bedell Cellars, he gave me this bottle of Rosé as a sample.  When I got home just before 9pm, my son Gabe was still awake, though very tired.  When I walked in the door, he was very happy to see me.  I went over and gave him a big kiss.  I put this bottle down on the table in front of him and as I turned he reached for it and grabbed it.  The way he was holding it and looking at the bottle, it had me in stitches,  I had to snap a photo.  I thought to my self, either he is going to like Rose or he is going to like blonds.

Posted in 2010, Bedell, Rose | 4 Comments

Smacked Around At The “Smackdown”

540b774a95b779d7fcb288038dcd5fdbOne and done.

Stumped by a local wine.  My head hung low and I walked away with my tail between my legs.

Last weekend at Roanoke Vineyards, they held their “March Madness Smackdown Tournament”  This was the third Smackdown I had attended, this time I was an active player at the event.

For those of you not familiar with the Roanoke Vineyards Smackdowns – the creative minds of Scott Sandell and Adam Ehmer – contestants and winemakers taste wine blind and try to decipher the varietal, the region and the vintage.  No small task I must say.  Trust me.

If you have never tasted wine blind before, you should.  It is the best way, in my opinion, to build you palate, sharpen you skills and it makes you realize, no matter how much you think you know, you really have a lot more to learn.

This event had 16 participants who each tasted wine blind.  Some were members of the Roanoke Wine Club, some worked in the industry, some were writers and some were enthusiasts.  The winner of the tournament would sit on the panel with some of Long Islands best winemakers and regional pioneers.  The winner from this event would achieve instant stardom and notoriety and be come a cult hero with a following of screaming fans.  Some of it is not true, but it sounds about right.  I would not be that person.

On this night I was lucky #92.  I gave myself a 29 points on my blind tasting ability by nights end.

We tasted 12 wines in total with 2 bonus round wines to break a tie.  My object going in was to play it cool, not think too much and go with my gut.  I stuck to not one of my goals.

The first round consisted of 3 whites, we each had an allotted time to guess the varietal, region and vintage.  They gave us a “cheat sheet” which listed multiple options for all the categories.

The first wine up, was no doubt a Chardonnay.  I tried to decipher the region and first thought California and then switched my choice to South America.  Mistake —  it was Cali all the way.

The Next wine was no doubt a Riesling, I tried to be cute and said it was a Finger Lakes Riesling, a little older from 2007-2005. Wrong again…it was a Washington State.

The last one, was the easiest, Sauvignon Blanc, from New Zealand, 2011-2008.  Bingo all correct.  Musky and gooseberry with bright acidity.  If only I had said Marlborough.

Kevin, my opponent tied!  We needed another wine to taste blind, the winner take all and move on.  The looser went and sat in the Peanut Gallery.

Scott poured us the wine.  It stumped me.  It was restrained, classic Chardonnay notes, but there was a hint of oak.  Just the slightest amount on the palate too.  I was picking it up.  Bright acidity with a minerality that I thought was flint.  This was a white burgundy!  A beautiful wine with personality and deliciousness.  Kevin and I needed a second pour – just to be sure.  We both got Chardonnay correct! Kevin said California, I said Burgundy.  Kevin said 2011-2008.  I said 2007 – 2005.

The winner was Kevin, based on the vintage.  The wine – Roanoke Vineyards 2009 Chardonnay.  That 15% that was barrel fermented threw me for a loop.  I got stumped by my home town.  I could not recognize my own Terrior.   Embarrassed and thinking of shutting down this blog because I know nothing about this region I love so much…I walked off to the Peanut Gallery to enjoy the rest of the evening, or at least try to.

While sitting in the Peanut Gallery talking with some of my Facebook friends – most who I met for the first time that night – a few things came to light.

  • Oregon makes a mean Pinto Noir.  I wanted to get that out of the way.
  • Long Island wine stand out among all wines we tasted that night.  They were brighter, richer, and delicate, with incredible balance and sophistication.
  • I have a lot more to learn and a lot more wine to taste.
  • 2009 Beaujolais are killer, in my opinion.
  • I like musky or cat pee aromas in Sauvignon blanc.
  • Tasting wine with people who like wine is a lot of fun
  • Roanoke Vineyards 2007 Merlot, when released will be a killer and noteworthy wine

But as I was driving home, thinking about the wine that kicked me out, I thought it was a Burundian wine.  A Long Island Chardonnay tasted like a white Burgundy, the pinnacle of Chardonnay, in my opinion.  Roman Roth is a serious winemaker, he makes the wines at Roanoke Vineyards as well as Wolffer Estate Vineyards.  I love his Perle Chardonnay, and I love this 2009 Chardonnay from Roanoke Vineyards.  Balance, deliciousness and distinctive — it fooled this fool.

Video From Roanoke Vineyards

198544_10150115770569299_314881524298_6196445_1874691_n

This Saturday at a SOLD OUT! Luce & Hawkins in Jamesport, the winner of the March Madness Smackdown Tournament takes his seat next to some of Long Island’s notable winemakers.  Andrew may be an  unknown to some but he has an impeccable palate.  Andrew is the production wine maker at Premium Wine Group in Mattituck, a custom crush winemaking facility.  He also happens to be part of a tasting group I am in.

When I found out he was part of the tournament, my money was on him – if I put down any money that is.

So, Melissa and I will be one of 100+ people will be tasting wine blind along with the panel of judges will all be wondering  “Can you tell… what the ROCKWELL… is tasting!”

Go Andrew!

Related Articles


Photo Credits:First Picture Henry Powderly from northfork.patch.com. Video and last photo from Roanoke Vineyards.

Posted in Blind Tasting, Event, Long Island, Roanoke Vineyards | Leave a comment

Tasting the Future: Shinn Estate Vineyards Shinn-Dig

A few weeks ago — OK about a month ago, Shinn Estate Vineyards in Mattituck held their 7th Annual “Shinn-Dig”  This is an opportunity for the Shinn Estate Vineyards extended family — those that support them and buy their wine’s throughout the year — to gather at the vineyard for a tasting of the future releases of their wines.  You can buy the wines by the case or mix up a case and have the opportunity to buy the wines at a discount.  As David Page, co-owner, likes to say, “Think of it as community sponsored agriculture for wine!”

This is the Gorton Clan’s 4th time we have attended the Shinn-Dig.  It is a family event where my parents, Mike and Patty, my brothers Tim and Matt and this year my Grandparents join Melissa’s parents, Dave & Edith for a fun, relaxed evening of wine and food.  We never leave disappointed.  And we always leave with multiple cases.Usually Melissa’s sister Stacy and her husband Darren join in, but due to a conflict, they could not be there.  However, Aunt Stacy was kind enough to watch Gabe for us.

We tasted through four wines (three white’s and a rose) from the 2010 vintage and four reds from the 2009 vintage.  I have to say that there was not one wine that disappointed and there were a few wines that really surprised me the table that night.

When we arrived we found out we were in the Farmhouse with David.  Barbara Shinn, co-owner, was handling the group of about 30+ in the tasting/tank room and Anthony Nappa, winemaker, was handling anther 30+ in his office, the barrel cellar.  There was 30+ in the Farmhouse kitchen.  There was a total of 12 in our group and the entire group had a wonderful time.

Thanks Ralph Ron DiGennaro for the photo

We munched on some delicious cheese and homemade pita chips, had some delicious olives and the hit of the night was a bean spread.  David always prepares a hearty stew to warm us and help enjoy the wines.  Tonight he prepared a delicious duck stew that was packed with flavor and made us feel as if we were home.  The night ended with some delicious home-made cookies that Barbara made.  I am not a coconut fan, but there is something about her coconut macaroons that just ends the night perfectly.

Wile we were nibbling, talking sipping wine and enjoying the night, David talked about the vintages, about the wines we were going to taste and more importantly he spoke about the vineyard practices and where Shinn Estate Vineyards was going in the future with some new wines and how they were doing on their bio-dynamic certification.  Some of the wines we tasted tonight were the first ever organically and bio-dynamic grown wines on Long Island, true history in a bottle.

I am going to talk about the wines we tasted.  The were all delicious, ripe and all showed beautifully.  Some were still not finished or polished, but you could taste to possibility and what the future would hold.

Shinn Estate Vineyards 2010 Coalescence: this is a return to the original meaning of coalescence — the union of diverse things coming together to form one.  Coalescence is a blend of Chardonnay, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and Merlot.  The juices are blended and fermented together at the time of pressing.  The Merlot juice and Pinot Noir juice is pressed right away as to keep it as clear as possible.  Looking at the bottle there is a slight tint to the wine, but this does not distract at all, in fact, it makes it more appealing.  Notes of Lemon and Lime with tropical fruit and notes of peach and slight aroma a fresh herb.  The wine is lively and bright with acidity.  Notes of grapefruit and citrus lead the way on the palate with hints of salinity beach rock and fresh-cut herbs.  There is a delicious tropical finish with nice minerality.  The mouthfeel is what really caught my attention.  It was lush and viscus.  A must for your summer meal adventures.  This was a huge hit at our table.  It is available in the tasting room.

2010 “First Fruit” Sauvignon Blanc:  Year in and year out, this is one of my favorite Sauvignon Blanc on Long Island.  Notes of grapefruit and fresh herb fill the glass with elements of beach rock, peach, lemon, kiwi and mango.  This wine was racing with acidity, tongue tingling acidity.  Tasting it, I was picking up some more grapefruit with hints of honeydew melon.  It had me craving oysters and scallops.  This will be released next week.

2010 Chardonnay:  Stainless steel fermented, this is the wine that captured all of our attention.  It was my favorite of the night.  A cloudy glass was poured for us — this happens to be the only “unfinished wine” as the lees are still be stirred — it did not distract from aroma and flavors.  Apple, pear, white almonds and hazelnuts with hints of mango, peach and spice filled the glass.  There was a richness that I was picking up on the nose, buttery and creamy like, but I could just not pinpoint it.  When tasted, there was bright acidity, with apple and spice showing through.  Then came elements of fresh tropical fruit, pineapple, mango, star fruit and warm spice notes.  There was a bit of heat I was picking up on the finish, but remember, it is still not finished.  I think our group bought a case or two of this, and we never buy a case of Chardonnay.  This is one to watch.

2010 Rose:  The color may have been lighter than in years past — this is no wimpy rose — this is a blend of Merlot and Cabernet Franc, with Cabernet Franc taking the lead.  Watermelon and Strawberry dominate the nose with hints of fresh-cut herbs and fresh morning grass.  Strawberry, raspberry, and watermelon carry on the palate with bright acidity.  Fresh herbs like oregano and basil also make an appearance with a delicious dried raspberry finish.  This will be released soon.

A delicious bowl of Duck Stew, photo again from Ralph Ron

We now moved onto the red wines from the 2009 vintage.  2009 was a bit of a tough vintage, most people thought that the vintage would be ruined in June of 2009, thanks to all the overcast and rain, but things improved.  Eventually things came up to speed.  The grapes developed and ripened well into October.  An extended late summer helped make some of the best 2009 wines.  Some have even said that due to the long growing season, 2009 might be the best yet.  the 2009 wines have been delicious across the island, we will soon see some of the 2009 reds and we will see where they stand.  But for now, here is what we tasted of Shinn Estate Vineyards 2009 red lineup.

2009 Merlot: As it was being poured into my glass there was an intense aroma of cherry and plum coming out of the glass.  NOtes of Strawberry, spice and earth were then followed by Licorice.  The reminance, what I like to call the last few drops of wine in the glass after it has been finished, showed some raisin and prune notes.  Tart cherry and spice were on the palate with more licorice.  Notes of Cinnamon, cardamom and plum continued.  The finish was long with hints of vanilla bean and coffee beans.  This was a hit at our table.

2009 Wild Boar Doe:  This is one wine that year after year is a favorite of mine.  I have said before and I will say it again, when I taste this wine, blind or not, I immediately am transplanted to the vineyards.  If there was a wine that symbolised Shinn Estate Vineyards, in my opinion, this would be the wine.  Packed with an earthy nuance and concentrated berry on the nose, I found this more earthy and spicy then in years past, with notes of smoke, meat and vanilla with hints of blackberry cherry and cedar.  The spice also takes center stage on the palate.  Cinnamon, cardamom and clove lead the way followed by notes of chocolate and baked berry fruit.  Delicious and balanced this is a serious wine that when released will be one to watch.

2009 Nine Barrels:  Anthony Nappa, Shinn Estate Vineyards winemaker, takes the best nine barrels of Merlot and blends them together with a small percentage of Malbec and Petite Verdot.  Another favorite of mine and of the table this year, notes of Blackberry, blueberry and dried raspberry and plum filled the glass with hints of dried flowers and grilled fig.  Earth and exotic spice are secondary aromas with hints of vanilla, smoke, cedar and earth.  Big cherry and plum notes appear on the palate with notes of coffee, smoke and spice.  Vanilla and blackberry lead a minty finish.

2009 Cabernet Franc: This is a big wine, not showing the traditional herbaceous notes that you see from cool vintages, like the 2009.  This was reminiscent of the great 2007 vintage.  Notes of raspberry and cherry lead the way followed by mint and dried herbs.  Exotic spice follow behind with notes of earth, and dried flowers.  The palate brought flavors of tart sour cherry, mint and bay leaf.  Velvety ripe tannins with hints of smoky spice.  a dried herbal finish  mixed with notes of vanilla and dried raspberry.  Bright acidity carry this wine with well-integrated tannins.  A very delicious wine.

2009 Cabernet Sauvignon: A very enticing nose.  Loads of Blackberry, plum, boysenberries all fresh and ripe with hints of concentration.  Earthy and spicy with a minty, eucalyptus, and smoke undertone.  This was a big wine, still young in its development.  Tannic and notes of tart cherry pie filled the palate with hints of black pepper spice.

What we tasted that night...From the Shinn-Dig Blog

The night was filled with laughter, food and wine.  David told stories of the two vintages and gave us updates on their quest for Bio-Dynamic Certification.  Since Coalescence was bottled we walked out with 3 cases of it, as well as alot of other people too.

One nice addition to the Shinn-Dig this year was raffle drawings in each dining area.  In the farmhouse one person walked away with a Magnum of Wild Boar Doe from the 2005 vintage with others walked away with magnum of 2005 Nine Barrels and 2005 Cabernet Franc.  Another 3 people won bottles of champagne.  There was one more prize, the grand prize, a two night stay at the Shinn Estate Vineyards Farmhouse.  The winning number was chosen before the event and number 99 was picked.  My wife had Shinn-Dig order form number 99.  What a great way to end the night that was filled with such great wines.

Now, we need to see who will watch Gabe for two nights this summer!

Posted in 2009, 2010, Barrel Tasting, Cabernet Franc, Cabernet Sauvigon, Chardonnay, Event, Future Releases, Long Island, Merlot, Rose, Sauvignon Blanc, Shinn Estate Vieyard | 4 Comments

Roanoke Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon

This past winter here on Long Island has been one cold one.  I found myself this winter drinking wines I usually don’t open or even keep in my cellar.  I am not sure if it is because of the winter or because my palate is changing.  Either way, I have enjoyed this sudden change.

Roanoke Vineyards is a vineyard that should not be missed.  When I went there for a visit a while back I felt an affection for the wines that Richard Pisciano produces from his own vineyard.  Roanoke has now become a must stop on any visit to wine country for me and it should for you.

Roanoke Vineyards 2006 Cabernet Sauvignon ($40) is now long sold out, but this wine, if you have in your cellar is really clicking on all cylinders.

2006 was not a stand out vintage on Long Island, but the 2006 wines that I have tasted and enjoyed are really coming into their own.   Don’t discount them, they are showing nicely and if you had patience and let them rest in your cellar, you are one lucky person.

Notes of dark berry fruit rise up out of the glass with hints of plum, grilled fig and warm cedar.  Boysenberry, vanilla and dark chocolate bring up the secondary aromas in the glass.  While earthy, woodsy, smoke, roasted coffee bean, blackberry and meaty mushroom start to evolve after a few hours of decanting.

When tasting, notes of cedar, cigar box tobacco, leather and blackberry appear front and center.  Secondary flavors of olive, dark chocolate, earthy spice and black tea leaf notes come to the palate.

The tannins are ripe and firm, delicious acidity and a velvety mouth feel bring this wine full circle.  It is a big wine that needs a big hearty meal, but to be honest, I really enjoyed this wine all by itself.

I am growing to like Cabernet Sauvignon – made in this way; the kind of Cabernet Sauvignon that when by itself, is just perfect.

Posted in 2006, Cabernet Sauvigon, Long Island, Roanoke Vineyards | 1 Comment